The fire and the problems afterwards
 

Ok. So recently my car caught fire due to an amp wire that shorted out and melted all the way through the car. The only damage however was to the passenger side floorbord wich also just so happens to be where the computer is located. I wasnt aware that the previous owener of the car had ran the amp wire through the firewall on the passenger side and the amp wire rand acrossed the wiring harness...:(. There was no real damage to the wiring but some of the coating on the wires had melted. After the fire i notieced that my vtec wasnt engaging, so i took a look tonight. Three wires were bare and touching. so i wrapped them up in E-tape and then wrapped the entire wiring harness up to an extent. but now when i bring the idle up to 1000 rmp it acts as if its hitting the rev limmit.. the car still runs and drives just fine but right at the 1000rpm mark it has that issue. Any ideas on how to fix this? im planing a rebulid on my H22A soon so id like to get this problem fixed as soon as possible.

please i need ideas soon.

-Rob

It sucks but a new wiring harness might be the best idea, sounds like this is going to give you nothing but problems in the future.

So the problem only came after you taped the wires up? Any check engine lights? Does the car actually not rev above 1000rpms, or it just sort of sputters then continues

My CEL is always on. The area i live in its very hard to find a code reader for and engine and ecu of this kind. It will go past 1000rpm no problem but if i try to slowly bring it up i just kinda goes " bawah bawah bawah" as if its hitting a rev limiter. As far as a wiring harness goes where would i even find one?

Also i fixed the VTEC problem when i taped the wires up.

**Just now i went out to start it up and check the status on the problem, and it was acting like it was gonna die on me. it was idling at 500 rpm so i gave a gentle push on the wiring harness and the idle came back up . The 1000 rpm problem still stands.

Your car is OBD1, just jump the 2 pin blue connector under the glove box and watch the CEL flash the code. See if you have any new ones other than whatever else is always on.

A junkyard or ebay would be where I would start.

I know this is gonna sound really dumb but im new to the Honda owership world.. and i have no idea what an obd1 is.

And could you go into more detail with the 2pin blue thing.

1) this is why a fuse must be placed next to the battery for any wires that are added to the car.
2) do you live in an area that does not have any auto parts stores? What part of IL do you live in? Any Autozone, Advance Auto, ect will read the codes for free for you.
3) How do you know you have an H22a and not a F22a?

i live in a small town called Olney, and ive been to various auto parts stores and they say the dont have the right code reader.
Also because the block has H22A stamped into it. i bought it from this guy in Kentucky so its a backwood swap.

There is a two wire blue connector under the glove box. Take a paper clip, bend it into a U-shape, shove it in both sides of the connector. Watch the CEL flash.

Compare the flashes to this list of codes:
Check Engine Light Codes: Honda 1990-1995 obd1 code retrieval

ok.
Look under the glovebox you will see a little connector that goes nowhere.
Take a paperclip (or whatever) and connect the 2 pins of the connector together.

Turn the key to the 2nd position

the check engine light will flash

long flashed = 10
short flashes = 1

report back what you find.