first post, first issue
i just picked up my new 94 accord 5spd. and besides the simple things theres one problem i noticed that doesnt sit right with me,
i took it to the gas station and when i pulled out the car stopped moving after i reached 2500 rpm and i would hit the gas and nothing. pulled it out of gear then rev matched and she pulled up to 5k till i shifted. and worked fine there after. but as soon as i start her up and take her around she bucks and once i shift it goes smoothly into gear. climbs in rpm then bucks and no nothing. just drifting, engage the clutch, slip her back in to gear and shes cool. what would be the cause of this particular issue?
this intermittant lack of forward motion?
could it be a fuel filter? an ignition problem? a new clutch was put in and it grabs great. but this dead spot and then needing to re select my gear worries and confuses me. could the clutch need adjustment? a slave cylinder, could it be a throwout bearing? any ideas?
i took it to the gas station and when i pulled out the car stopped moving after i reached 2500 rpm and i would hit the gas and nothing. pulled it out of gear then rev matched and she pulled up to 5k till i shifted. and worked fine there after. but as soon as i start her up and take her around she bucks and once i shift it goes smoothly into gear. climbs in rpm then bucks and no nothing. just drifting, engage the clutch, slip her back in to gear and shes cool. what would be the cause of this particular issue?
this intermittant lack of forward motion?
could it be a fuel filter? an ignition problem? a new clutch was put in and it grabs great. but this dead spot and then needing to re select my gear worries and confuses me. could the clutch need adjustment? a slave cylinder, could it be a throwout bearing? any ideas?
Last edited by jivecd5; Aug 19, 2009 at 01:35 AM.
new theroy. perhaps its an ignition problem. i get it above 4k and it starts hauling ***** and running like a champ. i shut it off, start it up, and it start givin me the wierd low rpm death. like its trying to push start its self. so do does any one have any inquiries? id like to get this nice cord running like it should... and i must say how impressed i am with the pick up the f22 has. wow. it really gets scootin. if theres any one who is in the palm beach county area it would be greatly appreciated if you could stop by and help me diagnose this odd issue.
Which engine? Does the valve cover say VTEC?
If so, maybe your oil pressure was low. The VTEC cam switch-over is done with oil pressure, so maybe that's plugged.
If that's the case, it should throw a CEL. Does your check-engine light come on for 2 seconds (bulb check) when you first turn on the key?
If so, maybe your oil pressure was low. The VTEC cam switch-over is done with oil pressure, so maybe that's plugged.
If that's the case, it should throw a CEL. Does your check-engine light come on for 2 seconds (bulb check) when you first turn on the key?
it is throwing a constant CEL but its non vtec. it seems as if it may be an electrical issue.
i've also noticed that i have a crack in my header. so that could be why im throwing the CEL
this is definately not a transmission issue due to the symptoms.
today, i fired it up and took it for a lap around the complex. ran GREAT. then i shut her off for a couple minutes. then took her for another lap. then it started doing it again.
i pulled out in first, climbed to 2700 rpm then poof, zero power.
so i shifted into second, climbed to 2700-3000 and poof no power.
then for the sake of "F*ck it" i revved it to about 5k, slipped the clutch until it caught back in second just above 3k and then ran fine again through the whole rpm range.
its seems like its loosing spark under load...
on a side note: she has 201K on the clock.
another problem ive noticed is that the speedo doesnt work. what could cause that in these cd5s?
i've also noticed that i have a crack in my header. so that could be why im throwing the CEL
this is definately not a transmission issue due to the symptoms.
today, i fired it up and took it for a lap around the complex. ran GREAT. then i shut her off for a couple minutes. then took her for another lap. then it started doing it again.
i pulled out in first, climbed to 2700 rpm then poof, zero power.
so i shifted into second, climbed to 2700-3000 and poof no power.
then for the sake of "F*ck it" i revved it to about 5k, slipped the clutch until it caught back in second just above 3k and then ran fine again through the whole rpm range.
its seems like its loosing spark under load...
on a side note: she has 201K on the clock.
another problem ive noticed is that the speedo doesnt work. what could cause that in these cd5s?
Last edited by jivecd5; Aug 19, 2009 at 05:33 PM.
Read the CEL error codes. I bet it's throwing a couple of them...
17 = VSS vehicle speed sensor. There's your speedometer problem.
If you can get any other error codes, that'll be a good place to start with troubleshooting.
17 = VSS vehicle speed sensor. There's your speedometer problem.
If you can get any other error codes, that'll be a good place to start with troubleshooting.
Not on a 94. To get codes follow instructions below. The site I refer people to is down right now.
1. Open passenger door.
2. Look underneath glove compartment area.
3. Look for a plastic piece that has blue plugs in it.
4. Grab the plug with TWO wires, which is the ECM plug.
5. Stick something metal into the plug connect the two wires.
I used a quick disconnect used in electronics. Thin paper clip will work too.
6. Turn the key in the ignition to the II position.
7. The CEL should start blinking, this is the code.
The code is done with long and short blinks.
A long blink adds ten, while a short blink adds one.
Three long + five short = 35, easy.
Note: In my experiences, if it is a transmission problem on an automatic transmission,
the D4 on the dash will blink.
1. Open passenger door.
2. Look underneath glove compartment area.
3. Look for a plastic piece that has blue plugs in it.
4. Grab the plug with TWO wires, which is the ECM plug.
5. Stick something metal into the plug connect the two wires.
I used a quick disconnect used in electronics. Thin paper clip will work too.
6. Turn the key in the ignition to the II position.
7. The CEL should start blinking, this is the code.
The code is done with long and short blinks.
A long blink adds ten, while a short blink adds one.
Three long + five short = 35, easy.
Note: In my experiences, if it is a transmission problem on an automatic transmission,
the D4 on the dash will blink.
it gave me codes 6, 7, 17, and 20
(now correct me where im wrong)
code 6: temp sensor. which would explain why the temp needle shoots to the moon as soon as i start the car (is that the sensor on the head or the one on the thermostat housing?)
code 7: TPS, or Clutch switch... im led to believe its the clutch switch because i can fire the car up even if i dont push in the clutch (it was in neutral dont worry) but would the tps make the car die suddenly like its been doing?
code 17: you guessed it, VSS
code 20: Electric load detector (wtf is that?)
A big thank you for the help so far, but i have one more favor to ask.
could you guys please direct me to the location of these components and means of fixing this issues?
(now correct me where im wrong)
code 6: temp sensor. which would explain why the temp needle shoots to the moon as soon as i start the car (is that the sensor on the head or the one on the thermostat housing?)
code 7: TPS, or Clutch switch... im led to believe its the clutch switch because i can fire the car up even if i dont push in the clutch (it was in neutral dont worry) but would the tps make the car die suddenly like its been doing?
code 17: you guessed it, VSS
code 20: Electric load detector (wtf is that?)
A big thank you for the help so far, but i have one more favor to ask.
could you guys please direct me to the location of these components and means of fixing this issues?
Last edited by jivecd5; Aug 19, 2009 at 08:25 PM.
Download a 94 shop manual from online manuals link in the DIY section. The error codes are listed in the fuel/emissions section. The KH model matches my wiring diagrams for a US accord.
Code 20 - Electric Load Detector is part of the engine bay fuse box.
Code 17: VSS is on the transmission.
Code 7: Is just the throttle position sensor.
Code 6: Is the coolant temp sensor. That sensor only feeds information to the ECU. There is a different sensor that runs the gauge in the car and it is the temperature sending unit. Sounds like you have a problem with that too.
The clutch switch is on top of the clutch pedal. Inspect that as well. See if someone rigged it to short the switch.
You have a lot of codes coming up, so definitely get a volt meter and test all of the circuits in the manual. A fault in your wiring or possibly the ECU could be the source of your problems.
Code 20 - Electric Load Detector is part of the engine bay fuse box.
Code 17: VSS is on the transmission.
Code 7: Is just the throttle position sensor.
Code 6: Is the coolant temp sensor. That sensor only feeds information to the ECU. There is a different sensor that runs the gauge in the car and it is the temperature sending unit. Sounds like you have a problem with that too.
The clutch switch is on top of the clutch pedal. Inspect that as well. See if someone rigged it to short the switch.
You have a lot of codes coming up, so definitely get a volt meter and test all of the circuits in the manual. A fault in your wiring or possibly the ECU could be the source of your problems.
well heres the deal. i just got the car last night at 1 am. in came on a flat bed. and just by looking around the car and the engine bay i can see its been neglected. so all these codes and symptoms corralate to one another most def. i just ordered the vss now actually. but which one of these codes would explain the car crapping out intermittantly under load? the tps? or the electronic load detector? or the combonation of both being out?


