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fuel smell near vapor canister

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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #11  
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I think the fuel-tank pressure sensor is located at the top of the EVAP canister, but it's connected with a hose to the fuel tank. That might be where it's leaking??? I think a leak there would throw P1456 instead of P1457.

The hose for that pressure sensor comes off the top of the fuel tank, so it leaks vapor, it doesn't drain liquid from the fuel tank.
 
Old Mar 29, 2013 | 09:36 PM
  #12  
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I put fuel in it this morning and it didn't sound like there was any vacuum sound, but it was kinda cool outside. I only put 3/4 tank in it also.
If the canister is saturated, how long would it take to dry out? Assuming it would of course.
It's definitely the p1456 code on the printout. Says possible loose fuel cap, vapor canister saturated, failed vent solenoid, or failed purge solenoid.
 
Old Mar 30, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #13  
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I would've expected the saturated canister, vent solenoid, or purge solenoid to throw P1457 instead. I wish I still had the shop manual for 6th-gen; it has really good diagnosis fault-tree. But it's about 6 pages & I didn't memorize it...
 
Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:21 PM
  #14  
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So the purge control valve clicks while the car is running. I know its that because I googled the number and it gave me that from Denso.

Question is: is it supposed to click? It's about 1 click per second cadence.
 
Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #15  
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At idle? Yeah, that's about right. It's sucking air through the canister to burn the fuel that's adsorbed on the charcoal. I'm not sure if that valve is programmed to work differently during driving.

I had a P1457 and it was caused by a bad vent-shut valve. The bad valve didn't even click so your purge valve clicking seems to indicate that it's OK. The real test is to use a vacuum gauge to see if the valve is actually opening & closing with the clicks.
 
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #16  
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Is there any other way to test it? I don't have a lot of tools other than hand tools. I've always worked on domestic vehicles and a few imports here and there.

I reset the ecm and I will find out if the code comes back.

This is frustrating not having the equipment I need and not much cash to get any.

I appreciate you guys help so far!
 
Old Apr 2, 2013 | 07:13 AM
  #17  
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For each solenoid valve, you can get a couple wires and apply battery voltage directly to the plug. Most likely (but no guarantee) a bad valve won't even click.

And you can systematically look for leaking vacuum hoses.
 
Old Apr 5, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #18  
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So I reset the ecm and have driven the car over 200 miles and no light yet. Still have fumes though.

Don't know if its related but I pulled into a convenience store off the highway pretty quick and when I got back in it wouldn't start. I unscrewed the fuel cap and screwed it back in and it started right up. Any ideas on that?
 
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #19  
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Almost 2 tanks of gas now and no cel has returned. Is it possible that the fuel cap was the issue to begin with and the cel just wouldn't clear itself?
 
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #20  
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Did you replace the oring on the fuel cap, or replace the whole fuel cap?

Was the code that returned p1456?

p1456 is for a leak in the gas tank. The first place to start is the gas cap. Since you replaced, do you still have fumes?
 



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