HALP! '99 Accord LX Anti-Theft issue
 

Hi I'm new on the forum and have a very serious problem with my '99 Honda Accord LX I hope to get help with. Okay so first off It has a F23A Vtec engine with an Auto transmission. I know that the anti theft system is screwed on it it was going out when I bought it. The Original Computer says (PT) 37820-PAA-L61 (next line: 1002-578940) In an attempt to bypass the security I bought a JDM Ecu for my model car because the computer is made for the car and doesn't have the systems circut in it. The JDM Computer is made for 99 Honda accord Auto transmission,F23A vtec engine, it says (M1) 37820-PEA-900 (next line: 1080-103122) The car still didn't start and transmission wont shift. I need any help you can give me our family car is giving out and we just bought this to replace it and it is not usable at the moment. I do have a Chilton manual and various info from the internet but I need more help as this is my first Honda. Any help is highly appreciated. Thank you.

Install the original PCM.

You are assuming the security system is your problem, but you list zero symptoms. What is exactly wrong with your car? All you say is that the car didn't start. We need more information.

So when I bought the car It was cutting off randomly and I had to put it in neutral to start it if it would let me. (Yes there was a problem with the ign switch) So i put a flip switch on the ign-ON to where I could turn it on and then start it with the key in the cylinder. It worked but then I wanted to get rid of the security system because the module that reads the key is going out and I don't want to go through the and money on something that will break again or if i need a new key pay an arm and a leg.

1. What happened to the original computer:
The key reader module was going out because it would take several different trys to get the key to read to make the damn green security key to go off.

I found the signal wires that come from the ign key module which were a white with yellow stripe & a yellow with black stripe. I found that if you put a toggle switch on these and flip it a few times really quick you can use a key without a chip no problem like it sends the code. Well that was fine and dandy but i tripped over these not yet taped wires and they touched the column and sparked. Then there was no dice. No green light, no start, and you can turn the ign on but no shifting even when foot on the brake. This is when I looked all over the car for a fuse and couldn't find one that was blown. I said well **** and assumed that the security system was now goodbye. I tried removing the Immo chip from the ecu to see if it would work. No dice. Then I read about JDM ecus and ordered the one listed above. Same thing as before except the JDM ecu doesn't have an immo chip in it. (I checked) To be extremely specific: Ign turns on, lights on dash come on, engine turns over but doesnt start, I can smell fuel unlike with the old ecu after my mistakes.

Something is shorted IMO.

Do you have a volt meter to take some readings at a few places?

The yel/blk wire is the power for the immobilizer. I can't find a wht/yel wire from the ignition switch.

Check that one end of your yel/blk splice has 12V if you have a volt meter or test light. You are going to need one for doing electrical testing and can pick up one for pretty cheap at any discount store.

I do have many multimeters manual and digital. I will check those wires as soon as I can in the mean time if you can think of anywhere else to check i will too.

Found out what was going on after testing some wires and taking a good look around once more. Taking the Immo. chip out of the ECU indeed worked like a charm to bypass the security but the problem was actually that the idiots, or mechanic, that owned it before me put the wrong rated fuses in for the fuel pump, ign coil, etc. I took the same rating of fuses from the less important things (headlights and others) and replaced them. Fired right up. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator because it was keeping it from running right and now i just have some gaskets to replace. Thanks guys! :D

How did you remove immo chip. Bc I'm having this issue

The way I did it was to rock the chip back and forth on the board until the legs broke off. The non intrusive way would be to desolder the chip and remove it that way. Nowadays they make emulator chips you can get for really cheap on ebay that you can solder in that will allow you to retain your obd code reading ability and keep you CEL from staying on. Below is pictures of the stock chip I removed and the emulator chips you can replace it with on Ebay or Ali if you can solder.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...15bf8e9007.jpg
Stock unit

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...d5f662848d.jpg
Emus on aliexpress
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...a5bbfca04d.jpg
Emus on Ebay

I axurally send a second ecu off to have that done. It's supposed to come back in like a week or so. But I think I shorted something in my immo as well. Bc I've been using all data to get info and I've traced it down to even the sub connectors. From what I can tell even running new wire. It's still doing it. I got all lights new battery redid all ground. Got power to main relay b1 and b9. I just want to drive the car in and out of jts current spot to work on it while I wait for the ecu. So I wonder if this will help. Bc I have 12v to the cluster on both power wires. I've check the bulb and it lights. I got no obd communication and no green key light. Before I had no issues I put some dash panels on and ever since I cant figure it out. I've bought. Ecus harnesses and everything. Do you suggest this? I don't give a crap about not having an immo. I use killswitch and stuff anyway. And thank you so much for replying. I wasn't expecting anyone to on an old thread