first off,,,,,,remove the oil filler caop, crank the engine make sure that the rocker arms are moving up and down , that will tell you if it is a broken timing belt,,

# 2 .. there is a write up on our DIY section to test for no spark ( ignitor, coil ) ,,,


try and let us know..

 

I did crank the engine and the rocker arms was moving. So I know it is not the timing belt. I did the test for the spark. I just didn't have a chance to check the voltage at the coil. I will check that and let everyone know what I found.

 

It wouldn't matter if the distributor was made out of gold. The ignition switch supplies power to the distributor. If the ignition switch is not working properly, then there will be no spark as well.

 

Okay! I tested for spark and no spark. I tested to see if the timing belt was broke by opening the oil cap. That tested good. Timing belt not broken. When I try to start the car with my booster pack, I see the yellow engine light comes on. Then I hear the fuel pump and then the yellow engine light goes out. I put a new distributor on the car. Everything in it was new. New ignitor and coil. I tried to test the voltage at the coil and ignitor, but I was by myself. I don't think that I did it correctly. I didn't crank the car. I just turned the ignition to the on position. The voltage light didn't come on. I don't think it is the ignition switch. The reason I don't think that it is that is because it still operates as normal before the car cut off. I don't know what is wrong with the car. I didn't check the spark plugs or wires yet. It was running like normal when it cut offwhile I was driving about70 miles an hour. Initially I thought it was the distributor, but when Ichanged that and it didn't start. Then I thought it was the timing belt,removed the oil cap and everything moved in the engine. Not timing belt. Now I am reading all of these symptoms on the internet, now I am comfused.What can it be? Can be 180 degrees out of time? Don't understand that part. It only goes on one way. Could it be the main relay, but I hear the two clicks. What gives? [sm=dontgetit.gif]

 

As PAHonda pointed out, you can't get spark from a distributor w/o power to the distributor. I don't see that you've confirmed 12V on Blk/Yel wire at distributor. Since you've swapped distributors, the keyswitch seems even more likely. Don't guess that it's OK, check it out w/ VOM or light probe.

good luck

 

How do you check the Blk/Yel wire at distributor? You need to crank the car while you testing it, in order for the bulb to light.

 

another thing that you might want to chk , is to make sure that the t-belt did not jump ( stripped teeth).put car on top dead center 1 and chk position of cam timing ..

 

Disconnect connector to distributor, turn keyswitch to ON, and check w/ VOM or light for 12V on pin/socket connected to Blk/Yel. You don't have to turn engine to check.

good luck

 

Follow-up. I checked the voltage. I didn't get a light, but did I did get shocked. I got a jolt from the blk/ylw wire. I really know what I was doing, but I knew I quickly disconnected the negative on the battery. When I got my son to start the car, the rotor button on the distributor didn't turn. I pulled the number one plug, the car sounded like it wanted to turn over. I did it all the with a battery booster hooked to the battery otherwise it will not turn over or turn over very slow. Now I don't know if my problem is the belt or electrical. Days earlier the parts in the oil cap moved. Now it don't.[sm=helpout.gif] I hope I didn't break the timing belt. I know if I did that, then the engine is ruin. I brought the car with 283K miles and now I have 361K. I don't want to get rid of it because it is so good on gas.

 

If the distributor rotor and the parts under the oil cap do not move, then the timing belt likely broke. You can verify this by taking off the valve cover to look at the cam sprocket.

You may consider picking up a used engine at a junkyard and have that installed.