Hi (to anyone willing to help out),

I went to Autozone to test a "Check Engine" light that lit up on my 1998 Honda Accord Coupe EX, and two codes were revealed (P1166 and P1167, "Primary HO2S No. 1 Heater System").

Is this a cheap and do-it-yourself fix or should I take just take it to a repair shop? How much would a repair shop charge typically for parts and labor?

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of the codes? If so, any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
James

 

Codes usually mean the heater element in the primary (ahead of catalytic converter) O2 sensor is faulty. It could also mean a wiring or connector fault, but this is less likely than a damaged heater element. Fix is replacement of the sensor. These are readily available from a variety of sources; ebay, internet, auto parts stores, Honda parts.

Place your car specs and identify what engine in your signature line for earlier responses.

goodl uck

 

both of those codes at the same time is VERY odd. instead, check for a blown fuse 6 in the drivers underdash fuse box.

this fuse blows because of a short to ground in the alternator black/yellow wire. check for the short to ground in the wiring between the valve cover and the alternator. you should see the wiring loom rubbing against a bracket.

if it's ok, replace the primary oxygen sensor.

 

Hi HondatechAV6 and TexasHonda,

I checked the fuse, and it is not blown. So, thanks for narrowing it down to the O2.

Would either you know an estimate for a repair shop to fix (parts and labor)? Debating whether to bother fixing it myself or just taking it to a shop.

Thanks so much for the help and advise, much appreciated!!
James

 

a shop should charge no more than .5 labor since you are bringing it in and requesting no diag. otherwise they may charge 1.3-1.5(diag and replacement). it's very simple, one pic is worth a 1000 words:



a new honda sensor should run you about $112, shop around. i'd suggest sticking with honda parts.

 

I'll double check the wiring/connectors of the O2. Otherwise if they check out good then I'll pick up the part.

Thanks again so much for all the help, it is very much appreciated!!

 

My daughter had the same problem with her car recently. It took us nearly 3 months before we finally figured out the problem. The 1998 Honda Accord EX 2.3 also has a ULEV vtch engine. This is actually much more sensitive to O2 sensors then the other DX and LX versions. Therefore, you need a ULEV (Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle)compatible sensor. They can be purchased at Napa or elsewhere. The specific part we used was Bosch #13493 (F00E260951). It made both codes go away and its a plug and go, so you can replace it yourself in about 15 minutes. I hope this helps.

 

I have the exact same problem. I appreciate the help. When i talked to AutoZone they said there are two types of oxygen sensors: 1) standard 2) made especially for California cars. I live in Utah but I bought my car from someone in CA and under the hood there's a message that says "this car passes federal and california emissions standards" or something like that. Does that mean i HAVE to buy the more expensive CA oxygen sensor? Or can i use the other sensor because i don't need to pass CA emissions, i need to pass UT emissions?

 

Generally, if you have trouble codes P1166 and P1167, that refers to an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor. Most likely you will need the more expensive Air/Fuel Ratio sensor to keep the Check Engine Light off and trouble codes from coming back. Air/Fuel Ratio sensor are generally wide-band O2 sensor. The regular narrow-band O2 sensor would give different trouble code(s).

Btw: We don't even know what year, model car, engine (ULEV or non-ULEV?) you have.

 

If you have the ULEV engine, there's a LOT more different than just the O2 sensor. You'll have to get the (more expensive ) sensor. Since you're not in California, you have to make sure the parts store actually lists a different sensor. (I'm assuming you have a 1998-2002 4-cyl???)