HELP PLEASE 94 accord 2.2 vtec
 

Ok I'm gonna lay it out simple as possible.
Was given a 94 accord ex it was running but had a lil miss nothing major. Owner said it had new plugs and wires. Drove it from Colorado, to Mississippi, 1300 miles, not a problem 1! arrived to ms, 2 day car started running worse, missing, sluggish idle, once it warmed up it was better. Day 5 in Mississippi, car is running fine, stop at a park and as in riding around the car just dies like it was cut off.... ok now, I try to crank it, turns over but won't start. I replace the distributor cap, rotor button, and plugs, NOTHING! So I replace the Fuel pump relay, NOTHING! So I check fire, getting fire. So I then loose bolt to fuel rail while key is on, blowing fuel out! So pump is working! But car will turn over but will not crank! ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED

Check for engine codes. The common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link to get CEL codes. It is a pretty quick test and may identify a problem. Post any codes you have on here.

Keep the old parts as spares, because you likely replaced good working parts. If the new parts are aftermarket, then they have a higher chance of early failure vs OEM parts.

When the engine cranks, does it sound normal like you have compression? Did any of the old spark plugs look different from the others when you removed them?

Seeing spark jump the spark plug gap can be misleading, because a weak spark will not jump the plug gap when air/fuel is compressed in the engine cylinder. A spark tester that you can pick up at most parts stores has an adjustment for the gap. The more distance you see the spark jump correlates to the output of the coil. Definitely test before replacing a coil. I'd almost get a junkyard coil, as the Honda coils seem to last a long time.

The #3 plug was oily and nasty, the rest were just normal wear on the plug.

Yes it sounded normal when it turns over

Was the oil was on top of the spark plug where the wire connects?

No sir

If you are sure the oil was on side of the plug that was inside the engine, then you may want to do a compression check on all the cylinders.

Oil should burn in the cylinder, so an oily mess that is like motor oil may be oil from the upper valve cover seals that drained down when you removed the plug.

Depending on your skills, you may want to put the engine to top dead center on the crankshaft and verify the camshaft is at top dead center to rule out a timing belt issue. You would need to remove the valve cover, so it would be a good time to replace the valve cover gasket and upper seals. On the EX engine, pay attention to how the upper seals are installed, because you will intuitively want to install them upside-down. The groove in the circle part of the seal faces the valve cover (up). The cone flap points towards the engine. Hope this makes sense. Felpro makes good gaskets in the aftermarket world.

The oil was on the threads, so it was in the motor. And it was the only one with oil on it. I will go back tomorrow and try and see if I can get any codes. So as of now I need to do compression check, and check time?

Oil on the threads could have leaked down when you loosened the spark plug. Codes are the easiest to test. Compression next easiest. Timing can be easy if you can see the tdc mark on the crank and use something like a long rod in the cylinder #1 to see if #1 the reaches the top when the crank gets to the tdc mark.