Have a puzzling problem with my reliable beater -- an 88 Accord with 247K miles. Was sitting at a light the other day, and steam started coming out from under hood. I assume it was steam and not smoke. I have an oil leak that drips on exhaust manifold and sometimes creates a small, hard to notice amount of smoke. But this was noticeable steam comng out from under the front of the hood. I wasn't far from home so decided to keep going since I knew if I stopped to investigate I would be dead in the water. I immediately cranked the heater to high, tho I didn't notice the thermostat move, That seemed odd. As I was continuing home, including a drive up a long steep hill, I heard a sound coming from my heater like marbles kind of rolling around. I turned off the heater and it stopped. I went thru this a couple times, so I figured it was just a result of my over-heating problem. I got home and turned off the car. At that point, more steam came out and anti-freeze came pouring out from the front underside.

After the car had cooled way down (a couple days later), I began investigating. Basically what I found is that of the 2 fans against the radiator (btw - why 2?), the right one (as I faced the car) spun freely. The left one, however, dragged against the radiator. In looking closely, one or two of the fan blades appear to have bent enough to begin dragging across the radiator. This led to visible grooves in the radiator to the point of causing leaking. I figured this out by pouring water into the radiator (again, completely cold car) and it streamed out the bottom.

Anybody offer some diagnosis on the above. What could have caused the bent blades into the radiator? This is hard palstic, so for it being caused by heat seems unlikely. The fans aren't belt driven, so could the electronics going to them have caused it? Do these fans have bearings? I ask because I have heard a bit of a whine over the last few weeks. Didn't think too much of it in a car of this age, and thought it was related to a belt squeal on start up in the mornings. However, in thinking about it, am wondering if that whine could be related to the any fan bearings. Come to think of it, that whine seemed to be coming from the general area of that fan.

Any help greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

Hey I happen to like the 3rd gens....."beater"...

DX, LX or LXi?

Anyway, there are a couple of things. There are bearings and bushings inside the motor that could be going or gone. Also check the mounting of the motor and the whole housing. Sounds like a new rad is in your future so the fans will have to come off. Might as well inspect the cooling fan assy (right/pass side of car is the cooling fan) to see what is up, that way if you need a new one you can order at the same time you get the rad. Pull the tray from the under side, get the bottom two bolts, then remove the top two, disconnect wire and the assy will come out. Inspect. Motor to "housing", nut on fan blades, blades.

Why two...on a 4 cyl-Right pass side is called cooling fan, left drivers is called condensor fan. Anyway, the car will command one of them to come on (cooling) when the car if off and a certain temp in the engine is detected.

Sorry I like to always call the sides of a car as you would be sitting in the car...Left Hand Drive....

 

Might be the fan motor has too much end-play in the motor shaft?? If so, time for a new fan motor. If the plastic blades are simply warped (age & heat?) then maybe you can get a fan without the motor??

Still, like Poorman says, you gotta take it out & have a look.

 

The carbon brushes and bushings in the cooling fan motors wear out and fail. I would suggest replacing both fans if they've never been replaced before. it's much easier to get the both out at same time. Usually one side has to come out to allow access to the 2nd side. It will be obvious as you start to disconnect and remove.

Fan removal can be a tedious task (poor access); remove undercover first, disconnect electrical connections (some models battery removal will assist access on pax side to electrical connector), disconnect lower bolt hold-downs and upper bolts, pull fans out from top.

I think there's a download manual for 89 Accord. See Online Manuals links in DIY forum.

good luck

 

The battery can stay in the car, if you need additional help, let me know. The oldest son and I replaced the rad in his 89 LXi about 4 months ago, I only supervise these days, they are old enough to do their own work.....and I've done a few other 3rd gens (86-89) as well...

Oh, if it is an auto it will have tran cooler lines at the bottom of the rad...trust me, buy a few feet of trans cooler hose (NOT fuel hose as it will not hold the pressure, trans cooler hose can handle the pressure). I'm betting the hose on there is OE so it is best to replace while you have them out....

 

Gentlemen - thanks so much for your responses. Really appreciate it. A few other points/questions:
1. Somebody asked the style -- it is an LX.
2. I will check in the DIY for the manuals. One of you said an 89. Same as for an 88?
3. It is a manual, so no tranny lines (thankfully, since I'm not much of a mechanic, just a tightwad with a car that isn't worth much, and willing to learn ).
4. Most important question -- how can I know if the motor has failed? I priced the 3 components at AutoZone quickly, and the rad is about $100, the fan about $30, and the motor about $30. I may try a salvage yard for the fan, but obviously go for new on the rad and motor. But don't want to get a motor is don't need one.
5. In the meantime am driving my old Suburban which I am trying to sell. Want to get the Accord fixed soon as the gas on the Sub is killing me.
6. In replacing the rad and filling with new antifreeze, I understand you have to 'burp' the system. Anybody got a link for how to do? Or once filled with anti freeze, can i just start the engine with the cap off, let it circulate, and fill to top? Have done that before.

Thanks again. You guys are a wonderful resource.

 

1. That was me, I kind of like the 3rd gen's (86-89). Just my own research. (LX is carb'd with power window's and a few other things above the DX)

2. See one. Most everything for the 86-89 models (generation) is the same. Yes there are minor differences but.

3. Good, one less thing to worry about.

4. You can pull just the fan assy. See if the housing around the motor is ok. Then you can apply 12v to the motor and see if the bearings/bushings have worn out. The motor (no housing or blade) is around 30-according to AZ the PN is PM3777. The entire assy is 140-according to AZ the PN is 620-221. Look at their online site for pic's to help with what I'm trying to describe. A bone yard might be ????

5.? at $3.75 a gallon I bet that hurts...

6. There is a bleeder valve on t-stat housing where the Upper Hose (MODS-3rd gens are different, trust me ) connects to the engine (might as well replace the t-stat?). Before filling the rad, crack open the bleeder (12mm), set heater to "heat" (opens the heater core), pour coolant in until it begins to flow/drip out the bleeder, close bleeder, top of rad, replace cap.

EDIT: of course new upper and lower hoses should be thought about. Also there is a switch in the lower right/pass side of the rad, be sure the new rad comes with a new o-ring or get one while there.

 

finally got some time to give this some attention. But where in the heck are the 4 screws holding the radiator? 2 upper and 2 lower, but I can't find any of them. I might have found the 4 lower. but the problem is the ones holding the fan to the rad are easy, but holding the rad on? Also, several other connectors, mostly electrical, that are a little tight to get to. and nobody mentioned the fan coiled around the driver side fan. But finally figured out how to get that out of the way.

But all the vids and the service mans from the DIY make it look so easy--ain't so. Any help, tips, video links appreciated.

 

The radiator has two brackets which are tied to the front cross member and have a grommet which supports and positions the radiator. Each bracket has 2 bolts to remove. Lower end of radiator has rubber bushings which sit on posts.

Lower and upper radiator hoses must be removed.

Getting the fans out is the hard part. Elevating car may make accessing the lower radiator hose easier. It may be reachable from topsides but the clamp may require access from below.

good luck

 

4 10mm bolts hold the "plate" across the center of the car. You actually want to mark then remove the hood latch. Then the whole plate is out of the way. The "mounts" at the top actually stay attached to the plate. Can take a pic if needed.

EDIT: took pic anyway. This is the left/drivers side, tried to highlight the two bolts on that side