Idle RPM cycling from 1000-2500
 

First Post, history that has led to my current problem Please bear with me. I recently had a hole in my Rack and Pinnion power steering hose, went to replace hose and ended up cross threading and breaking the R&P. Car was sitting out front my house during Hurricane Mathew and ended up having high water get inside car up to my seats:mad: Exhaust pipe was submerged, pushed car out and let it dry, I could not run car because of the cracked R&P. I ended up pushing car up in driveway so it was elevated for water to drain out. I had to go out of town for three weeks so it sat for period of time. I used a wet vac and heat gun to dry out the inside carpet and hung damp rids inside to get rid of moisture before I left. I changed R&P last weekend along with both the tie rod ends. Started car for first time and it still had water that blew out the exhaust. I have a SRS and ABS light, and the engine RPM cycles continuously between 1000-2700. I drove car around neighborhood to get my steering as straight as possible (needs an alignment and State inspection). So I didn't check for any codes but read that IAC valve is common problem. So I changed the valve and cleaned all the passages including removing intake manifold. Put it back together and could not get car to start, antifreeze was dripping from bottom so I took it back apart and had antifreeze in the manifold. All I could think is possibly the seal on IAC did not seat tight allowing the antifreeze to enter the other two ports. I cleaned back up, and this time along with the seal I used RED RTV thin coat to seal this valve. I initially used a FELPRO gasket from Advance Auto that I now am going to replace with a new Honda gasket (had to order this along with the hard coolant hose that attaches to AIC valve and engine block). So any chance I may have damaged anything with the coolant getting into intake? And was I ok to use RTV along with the AIC valve gasket, I hope to hell that this was the problem with the antifreeze and not a cracked housing. I gently used an impact to remove the screws on the old IAC valve but pretty sure I didn't damage the TB housing. I know this is too long a post, and appogogize just hope that once I get the new factory gasket and put it back together that she will start! Anything I might have missed?

A few things in play.

Is the "surge" all the time or only when the car starts to get to op temp?

I believe it started shortly starting.

Then it is continuous.

Since this started before removing the intake I'm going with something still in the idle control. So be sure the coolant is full and no trapped air....Bleeding one of these is not as easy as some of the older ones.

I like to set the heat to max (turn the key to on so the electric motor will open the heater control valve) then turn the blower motor off. Fill the rad and put the cap on ONLY TO THE FIRST CLICK - the idea is not to let the system build pressure. Then you can start it and let it run until the cooling fans cycle...keeping an eye on the temp gauge.

So I should have asked first about the coolant level. Low coolant/air in the system can "confuse" the idle control system.

Where was the antifreeze dripping exactly?

If water was that high, did you do an oil change to make sure there is not water in the oil pan?

There aren't many places where coolant can get into the intake. I'd recommend getting a radiator pressure tester as a loaner tool from you local auto parts store. Pressurize the system to about 16 psi when engine is cold and try to find where you have leaks.

Not sure where you got the replacement IAC valve, but I'd keep the original. Too often we see aftermarket parts not fit right or do not work out of the box.

Do you have a scanner/code reader? Can it read live data from the engine?

I did replace the oil and filter before I changed the valve and I'm assuming the gasket must not of sealed the coolant chamber and that is why I had coolant in the intake laying in the intake manifold and it started to leak through the TB to manifold FELPRO gasket that is shown in the picture. I'm thinking I'm fortunate that the engine did not turn over but it was enough turning to allow coolant to accumulate in the bottom of the manifold. I looked at the oil and don't believe I got any in the there. Question is the tube that is immediately to the right of the manifold I assume is the hose that goes to PVC valve, I pulled that and it didn't look like any coolant had made it that far. Also, I did save the old IAC but thinking letting the new gasket and adding a thin coating of RTV will keep the coolant out of the throttle passage where it does not belong, any problem with using RTV here? When I removed the valve it was pretty built up with deposits as was the manifold, I did order from the local Honda dealership a new hose that attaches to the bottom nipple of the AIC as mine had a small tear and also a replacement gasket for the TB to Intake MAnifold. They won't be in until Tuesday so have a couple days before I tackle it again. This is my sons car, and he shipped off for the Navy last week so not in a rush. I appreciate the input Poorman and PAHonda.

My opinion is to use only the gasket and no RTV. The only place I've seen RTV required on a Honda gasket is on 4 areas of the valve cover gasket.

Fel-pro usually makes good gaskets. I'd suggest making sure the mating surface on the bottom of the throttle body is clean where the gasket sits. Also make sure the surface is smooth without gouges. I can't remember if the bottom of the throttle body has grooves or is perfectly flat. If flat, I've used fine grit sandpaper, like 1500 or 2000 grit, on a flat block to clean up a metal surface.

I used RTV with the AIC valve gasket because I believe that is where the coolant bleed over into the other port allowing the coolant to pool in the intake. I'm assuming If the gasket doesn't encase the coolant port I will have bleed over again. I don't want to have to replace TB if I don't have to.

This car is beginning to rack up $$$ in neglected upkeep. I've replaced both CV joints, battery, alternator and serpentine belt, R&P, brake pads and rotors, the only other major thing that I don't know if has been changed is the timing belt.

PAHonda, there shouldn't be any coolant enter the intake manifold correct? I could reuse another FELPRO gasket to mount the TB to Intake but need to make sure the coolant isn't bypassing the TB where it's not supposed to be. I did connect the coolant hoses to the correct ports, I just wanted to mention this.

I'm basing the IACV setup from my 95 accord. The IACV had two coolant hoses going to it and coolant flowed through a sealed chamber, so there was no way to get coolant into the intake.

If you have the original part, does the IACV have an open port where the coolant enters the throttle body? The 98 and V6 may be a much different design.

Idle RPM cycling from 1000-2500
 

The IAC valve has 3 chambers, the coolant enters or leaves from the bottom port/nipple and there is another port/nipple on the left side of the throttle body. I assume the coolant circulates from one side and exits the other. I will attach pic when I get home from work. Fortunately when I attempted to start the car it never lit off or I would have had a lot more coolant in the intake. When it started leaking I thought it was from the bottom hose that connects to the IAC but in hindsight believe the TB to intake housing gasket was saturated and this is why it started to leak. Had a very smal tear/rip in the hose but couldn't figure out why it would leak because clamp was pretty tight. Believe now it was run off from the other gasket.

Idle RPM cycling
 

Here is pick of old IAC valve. The far right port is for coolant.

Idle RPM cycling from 1000-2500
 

Another pic of TB with nipple port that is in front of pic is the coolant and the other one below it is the new AIC valve nipple port.

I picked up tonight a new gasket for TB and hose that I had torn. I decided to pull the intake manifold off to make sure I didn't have any coolant and found that I did get some coolant into the manifold itself, doesn't look like much if any got down inside the 6 lower passages, but as a precaution I'm going to try and set up my wet vac to suck up and residue, while I'm doing this is it ok to spray brake cleaner or carbuator cleaner down these chambers to get some of the carbon deposits out? I'm hoping because the engine never turned over that coolant did not make it down these chambers...if it did what should I do? I really don't want to rip into it any further than I have to. She was running (although rough) before I took the intake off and changed the IAC. Also when I did remove the IAC and cleaned the intake manifold it did not have any coolant inside. i just need a warm and fuzzy that when I put this back together that I won't have any issues. If a small amount of coolant made it through the intake valves is it going to ruin my day after I get her running?

You should be fine. If you are that worried about it you could pull the plugs and spin the engine.

I would only use carb/TB cleaner inside the intake runners.

Just me but if you have the intake off.......might want to be sure to get the egr port as clean as you can....I hate the p0401 code :)

Progress made. Used an old T-shirt soaked with carb cleaner and got the intake chambers, reinstalled new intake manifold gasket and reassembled. Of course all my problems are not gone. I have ABS light and SRS. I used a code reader and have a confirmed P0141 for O2 sensor circuit and a pending P0505. I'm thinking the flood waters have contributed to my current problems. The engine is running better, no more surging, I think the IAC fixed that. I drove the car to fill up the tank with fresh gas and think my ABS may be the wheel bearings, feels kinda rough. I guess that is my new project, could also be wheel sensors but not getting any codes for them. Have to get rid of the light so I can get the car to pass state inspection.

Might be worth taking it to the dealer to read the ABS and SRS codes. My wife did that with her car, and they found a bad ABS pick up on the right rear, and a bad passenger seat belt. The seat belt was covered under warranty, while I changed the ABS pick up unit, and cleared the code for it. They didn't even charge her for reading the codes, and that saved me a bunch of money on not buying parts I didn't need. I know some don't like going to the dealer for stuff, but sometimes it can actually save you a few bucks. I had her order me up some small bulbs this past week, as I needed some for her 2000 Accord, and some for my 99 Accord.

I'll cross-post this as a "PSA - Public Savings Alert": If you are going to replace the I.A.C. Valve, and opt for aftermarket (which I do all of the time with generally good results); do yourself a favor and BUY TWO...lest you get a bad one, and not know it... Having had to bear the time/expense of pulling the original {Denso}, believed bad, and swapping with a Driveworks {AdvaceAuto non-OEM}, I was thrown by exactly the same "hunting" behavior.

Ultimately, forsaking 'what are the chances of both bad?' thoughts, I swapped in the much more expensive OEM part - and PROBLEM SOLVED. Now; I suspect if I had bought a few aftermarkets, one would have worked fine. It's easy to pull and replace, so you can save money there (with not much to the innards, on a near twenty year old car, etc...) - just be aware that you can easily get a DoA part if you don't buy from the stealership.

Be advised - decide up front!