Just bought a '94 Accord EX
1 Attachment(s)
Hi everyone!
Today I once again become the proud owner of a 1994 Honda Accord EX. I purchased this gem for the awesome price of just $200 with one pitfall... I am pretty sure the motor is blown due to the former owner overheating it. A little history on me. I was a proud Honda Owner a while back of a 1994 Honda Accord LX model. Back then I really didn't care about cars that much and I was to busy doing other things. Now, I have complete respect for these cars and am in need of some information. I have yet to start the car, due to the plugs and wires being rotted and the 1 plug is severely fouled with oil. Once I get it to fire, then I can make an assessment on wether the motor is blown or not. The previous owner said she drove it til it shut off, so I am thinking that's not good. If so, I want to get a used motor to put in her. I am seeing a v-tec and a non v-tec version of the 2.2 liter motor. My previous Accord LX had a non v-tec 2.2 liter, but from what I see, my new EX has a 2.2 liter with v-tec. What motors can I hook up to this transmission (auto) and will also wire up the exact same way? Any and all information, advice, etc. will be GREATLY appreciated! Also, how easy is it to convert her to a 5 speed manual? Cost? Looking forward to getting this Honda road ready within the next couple of weeks. Talk to you all soon. -Craig Here she is in all her glory: Attachment 17942 |
Welcome! The exterior looks like its in great shape.
The engine you want for that car is the F22B1. It should be stamped on the front of the engine block. It is possible to fit other engines for greater performance, but replacing it with the same unit will allow you to just do a pretty easy swap. Transmission switch is possible, but requires a little more technical skill. My advice- first see if you can get the car to run (as you said). Change out the transmission fluid- see how the gearbox is shifting. Id also recommend checking everything safety-related with a fine-tooth comb: ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, etc. Good luck, and keep us posted. |
Originally Posted by DerekWildstar
(Post 297532)
Welcome! The exterior looks like its in great shape.
The engine you want for that car is the F22B1. It should be stamped on the front of the engine block. It is possible to fit other engines for greater performance, but replacing it with the same unit will allow you to just do a pretty easy swap. Transmission switch is possible, but requires a little more technical skill. My advice- first see if you can get the car to run (as you said). Change out the transmission fluid- see how the gearbox is shifting. Id also recommend checking everything safety-related with a fine-tooth comb: ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, etc. Good luck, and keep us posted. |
Update!
Put on new distributor cap and rotor, as well as new plugs and wires and the motor fired up just fine! We found out the source of the coolant leak/overheating was a bad/clogged radiator which I am getting a new 1 tomorrow. So far, it seems as though the motor hasn't been "cooked". The only problem with the car is it idles up and down, but when I removed the throttled body sensor it idled OK. Is this a common fail point on these cars? So far, it's the best $200 i've spent! :D |
Welcome to the haf.. :)
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Originally Posted by cgeromi
(Post 297618)
Update!
Put on new distributor cap and rotor, as well as new plugs and wires and the motor fired up just fine! We found out the source of the coolant leak/overheating was a bad/clogged radiator which I am getting a new 1 tomorrow. So far, it seems as though the motor hasn't been "cooked". The only problem with the car is it idles up and down, but when I removed the throttled body sensor it idled OK. Is this a common fail point on these cars? So far, it's the best $200 i've spent! :D Now that you have it running, pull out the owners manual and do a 90,000 mile tune-up. You don't have the maintenance records right? So I would err on the side of caution and change all the fluids, the plugs, filters, etc. I would also do a thorough inspection of all safety-related items (you don't want a wheel coming off at 65 mph, for instance). Also, you might want to consider a timing belt/water pump service too if you do not know when the last time it was changed. Good luck, and keep us posted! |
Cyclic idling is usually caused by too much air into the system. This means a large air leak; PCV, vacuum brake booster, cold air boost valve, or misadjusted throttle plate (someone opened the throttle plate stop, it should never be adjusted). You will need to find the source of excess air.
Also low coolant level can cause this problem. Make sure you've fully bled the cooling system (bleeder on top of engine near distributor). If car was really badly overheated, a head gasket repair may be in future. Watch for loss of coolant and missing at idle on startup. Looks like you got a bargain. good luck |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 297672)
Also low coolant level can cause this problem. Make sure you've fully bled the cooling system (bleeder on top of engine near distributor).
For good measure, do a compression test. |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 297672)
Cyclic idling is usually caused by too much air into the system. This means a large air leak; PCV, vacuum brake booster, cold air boost valve, or misadjusted throttle plate (someone opened the throttle plate stop, it should never be adjusted). You will need to find the source of excess air.
Also low coolant level can cause this problem. Make sure you've fully bled the cooling system (bleeder on top of engine near distributor). If car was really badly overheated, a head gasket repair may be in future. Watch for loss of coolant and missing at idle on startup. Looks like you got a bargain. good luck |
Head gasket repair is much easier/cheaper than motor replacement. If engine has decent compression, you are better off w/ rebuilt head and new head gasket.
good luck |
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