Hello everyone,


I'm having trouble trying to get my radiator and cooling fans work. I replaced the fan switch, thermostat, relay, and installed brand-new fans but still couldn't get it to work. I don't know what else to do. Please help.




Sincerely,


Demster from VA

 

We'll go through a few preliminary checks first before moving on with further testing.

1. With the car running and A/C on, does either fan work? Both normally should turn on with the A/C.

2. If fans did not run in #1, unplug the connector to the fan switch (see attached photo). Jump the harness side connector with a wire or small paper clip. Does either fan run with the ignition in ON or START?

If not, get a longer piece of wire and attach one end to the cavity terminal of the harness connector's green wire. Then attach/touch the other end of the wire to body ground or even the battery's negative terminal. Does either fan run with the ignition in ON or START?

 

Sorry for the late response. Neither of the fans worked with car running and A/C on. I tested both fans using test leads and both worked as well. But, when I connected the paper clip to the fan switch, only the radiator fan came on without turning the car ON or START (i don't know if it's a problem if the fan turned on with ignition off or without starting).
As I'm writing this post, I'm trying to bleed the cooling system and check if the air pockets are causing the fan switch not to work. And luckily, after 20 minutes, both fans came on intermittently.
Now I know that my radiator fan is working, I'm trying to focus on how to make the cooling fan to work when I turn on the A/C. Any ideas how to proceed? Thank you so much in advance.


Demster from VA

 

Hello guys,

This is another post in regards to an annoying Air Recirculation light that won't turn-off. It's draining the life of my battery so I have to disconnect the battery every single time. I couldn't find the location of the fuse or is there anything else that might causing this problem. Please help. Thank you in advance.


Demster from VA

 

I merged your two threads to together as the issues may be related.

If the ignition switch was not in ON or START, the fan(s) should not have come on when you jumped the fan switch. Jumping the fan switch harness connector provides the ground (-) to coils of both respective radiator fan relay and condenser fan relay.

The only time the fans should have run without the ignition switch in ON or START is if you had turn the ignition in ON or START and then turned it off. The Radiator Fan Control Module will still provide power (+) to the fan relay for two minutes afterward.

I will think about some checks/tests to do and get back to you.

 

The two issues may be somewhat inter-related.

1. There may be a short providing power to the heater control panel, thus the air recirculation stays light.

In addition, the one cooling fan ran, without the ignition switch ON when the fan switch was jumped in our previous test.

Under-dash Fuse No. 8 (7.5A) only should have power with the ignition switch in ON. This fuse protects several circuits: recirculation control motor, heater control panel, rear window defogger indicator light, mode control motor, radiator fan control module, A/C compressor clutch relay, A/C thermostat, rear window defogger relay, and blower motor relay.

Pull under-dash Fuse No. 8 and report what happens.

2. Now, we move on to do a couple of tests to try to narrow down why the condenser fan may not be running.

If you have a multimeter, here are a couple of tests. There are other tests that can also be done

Locate the A/C condenser fan relay (see attached photo). Unplug the harness connector. It will have 4 terminal cavities.

Test for voltage: At the A/C condenser fan relay harness side terminal cavity with the Yel/White wire (Yellow with a white stripe), test whether there is voltage (+) with the ignition switch ON. (Make sure you replace under-dash Fuse No. 8 before this test.) Multimeter's red lead to the harness terminal with the Yel/Wht wire; and meter's black lead to body ground. There should be voltage (+). -- Report your finding.

Test for continuity: For this next test, you can turn the ignition switch off.

First jump the fan switch with a wire or paper clip and leave it in.

At A/C condenser fan relay harness side terminal cavity with the Grn wire, test for continuity to body ground. There should be continuity.

To test for continuity, set the multimeter to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

Report your finding.

 

Sir,

For the cooling fan issue:
-Does a faulty condenser contribute as to why the cooling fan won't work? I forgot to mention that my condenser needs to be replaced because i believe there's a leak.

For the recirculation light issue:
-Do I need to replace the fuse? Or wait until I finish the mentioned tests?

Thank you so much for your quick response. I will do the said tests and report back to you.

 

1. Even if the condenser had a leak and the A/C wasn't working, when you jumped the fan switch, both fans still should have ran (not just one). The ECT (fan) switch; A/C switch with blower fan switch on; or ECM can trigger both fans to run. So, it still should of ran when you did the previous test with the jumper at the fan switch.

2. Fuse no. 8 is probably not blown. You want to pull that first and report if the air recirculation indicator light stays on. Also, see if the interior blower motor runs with the fuse out. -- I want to see if there may be a different short (for example, some other power source causing it) other than power via Fuse no. 8.