The 94-97 models don't have that, and it doesn't show on diagrams at HondaPartsNow.com ... so I don't really know what you are talking about... take a picture and post it.

There is a difference beweeen an "electric ground" and a basic clamp or wiring harness keeper. ECT-A is the only electrical component on the thermostat cover. ECT-A is the same for 93 and 94-97. I doubt your ECT-A needs a separate or external ground because the 94 model doesn't have one.

 

Wanted to verify it before I told you something wrong ...

Yes, one of the two wires on ECT-A (radiator fan switch) IS GROUND. No need for additional grounding for it to work.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu-circuit.html

If Honda was looking to "get ground" for something else ... there are much better places to do that.

 

I just cant get that screw off. I have put much silicone on it, but to no avail. Can I just cut the wire below the screw and ground it to another location?

 

That is an important ground, so I would not modify it.

Is the problem that you can not get a socket on the bolt? Have you tried soaking that bolt with PB-Blaster?

 

I have dry silicone lubricant. No other vehicle to run and get PB.

 

Any help on this would be appreciated. I still cannot break this stupid screw loose. I know it's not preferred, but CAN I simply ground from/to another location?

 

Silicone will not penetrate the threads. I would clean that up and try using oil. Transmission fluid will work. Motor oil will work. If you have WD-40, that will thin the oil and help it to penetrate the threads.

That ground is for the engine computer and the distributor, so I wouldn't want to route that wire to another spot.

 

Good news! I finally got that screw off using a leverage trick with two combo wrenches and a screwdriver! Good grief.

Installed the new OEM stat, tightened OEM cover to specifications, and put everything back the way it was. Filled properly, cranked her up, checked for leaks while it climbed to normal temp, then took it for a test spin. Temp rose to just below half, and didn't budge from there. Pulled back into the drive, re-checked for leaks, and then a tremendous sound occurred - both fans kicked in! That hasn't happened in ages. It didn't take long before they went off, though.

Took it for a longer test drive, and when I pulled back into the drive, I felt both hoses, which were both nice and warm. The lower hose had been cool at all time before. Sounds like it was the stat the whole time.


Thanks to all who pitched in with their expertise and knowledge!

 

Good job. Sounds like you fixed it.

Yes, that warm lower hose is a good sign that the thermostat is working now. Notice is takes a while to open and allow water to start circulating ... this is normal.

While engine is running, ECT-A (on the thermostat housing) will cycle the fans as needed ... so it sounds like it's working.

When the car is turned off, ECT-B (by the upper hose) will cycle the fans as needed ... but the coolant has to be very hot ... like 220f. It likely takes some highway speeds on a hot day and then parking and turning off car before it will run the fans.

 

Is there anyway to tell if my water pump is bad? My car is not over heating but then again I took out the thermostat.