Power band issue & over heating issue?
 

94 Honda Accord EX 2.2L V-Tec 5spd......

My car has recently started the funniest thing... It feels like during acceleration that the vehicle is sluggish almost. It feels like a two stroke with a messed up power band. It accelerates hard, then gets sluggish, then clears up and repeats it over and over no matter what gear. Any ideas or suggestions or things to look for?


Also, the vehicle does not over heat when driving or sitting at a red light, but if you leave the car idle for a few minutes, the temp gauge gets up pretty high. The fans do turn on and blow air, however, when the temp gauge rises, if you just rev the motor slightly, the temp gauge goes down, it almost acts like the water pump is not pushing hard enough when idle.... Any ideas on that?

This car has been nothing but a nightmare since I got it. Ughhhhh help!!!!!!

FYI, you should not run the engine when it starts getting hot. If you have to, turn on the heat full blast to help cool the engine.

When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and see if there is coolant filled to the top of the radiator. If not, then top it off. You can rent a pressure tester from the parts stores for free to see if the cap and the radiator will hold about 16 psi pressure.

EDIT: For the hesitation, clean the EGR ports on the intake manifold. It is a pretty simple DIY. Search this site for threads about this, or search the web for videos.

the overheating at idle sounds like water pump issue.

Again, it does run cool when moving, of course, it could be the gauge cluster that the "dealer" put in. He said the old gauge cluster went "haywire"... I'm do strongly believe I was taken for a ride with this one. Needs a lot more work than was explained... I just figured out tonight the front left caliper is dragging hard enough to stop the car from rolling on a slight hill... Anyways, I will check the radiator in the morning. I also noticed tonight that one of the fans is not turning on. I think I might just re-run those wires to a toggle switch.

As for the EGR, Could it possibly be the plugs, wires and coil pack causing my "hesitation", or possibly a dirty intake? I mean the original cone filter looked rusted and beaten to death.. I also took into consideration the fuel filter. The oil doesn't appear to have been changed in quite some time.

There is a good video about how to clean the EGR ports. Google d8N-SE047VY to watch the youtube video.

Which fan is not running, the passenger or the driver's side fan? Do you have a volt meter?

If you are not sure when the last tune up (cap, rotor, check wires, plugs, filters, ect) was done then I would start there...has to be done anyway.

Is the CEL on?

Check the engine coolant as suggested. If full I would also bleed the system to be sure there isn't air trapped in the system.

And please answer the other questions as well.

PAhonda - The drive side fan is not running. The passenger side fan runs even when the car is off. I found this to be odd, but again this is my first import. And geez I got taken for a ride on this one! I have access to a volt meter, what are you thinking? I was just going to jump the fan and see if it even works, then go from there. If it is working, I am just going to run a switch to the dash and wire them direct to the battery with a fused line...

poorman - The check engine light does turn on, once a day. Only turns on during the first morning start, shut it off and turn it back on the light goes out. It's weird, the car doesn't act any different than it does when the light is out. I gotta lot of work to do to the car and no time to do it. I am always working and when I am not working, I am doing side jobs.(Tow Truck Driver)

*sigh*

Someone told me the PCV valve may be the cause of it burning oil...??

Also, I didn't see the DIY check engine......? I may be looking in the wrong spot... Do you by chance have a direct link?

I think that you may be dealing with a few different issues, so lets take this one at a time.

1. The check engine light. The light will come on for 2 seconds when you first turn the key to the II position. That is the bulb check. If it turns on at any other time, then the engine computer detected a problem. You will have to get the codes. The DIY link is below:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/

2. The fans. If you turn on the a/c while the engine is running, both fans should turn on. If one fan does not turn on, then unplug the electrical connector to that fan, and use the volt meter to see if you have 12V going to the fan. It should have 12V.

Do not mess with the wiring of the fans, because rewiring is not only unnecessary, but that will only make things more confusing to figure out what is .

3. You didn't tell us if the coolant in the radiator is filled all the way to the top?

PAhonda - The check engine light does come on before vehicle is running. Once the vehicle is running and I am actually moving, the light does come on. After you shut the vehicle off, and turn it back on, the light is out for the night.

The fans - Well, as I did a compression test on the cylinders, i found them at 135PSI, except the second cylinder in from the passenger side, apparently that one is stripped so I didn't take it out as I don't have the means to fix it currently. However, upon doing all this, I did run the car shortly after and both fans decided it would be a good time to turn on!? So I will keep an eye on them to make sure they are both consistent.

What should be the correct reading on the compression check as compared to my 135PSI.

The Radiator - Upon removing the cap, it was only slightly low. The over flow reservoir was not empty, it was actually where it was supposed to be.

As far as the CEL, I will have to get back to you on those. I'll probably go check them in a few minutes. However, my question is, will it reveal the ABS codes as well?

Ohhhhh and it's the weirdest thing... I put a quart of oil in the car I'd say about a week ago. I checked it today as the dummy light turned on and off briefly which naturally indicated I needed oil.... 3.5 quarts low. And still needs more. I don't see a leak, and figured out the blue smoke I am seeing is the clutch slipping..... Any ideas on where the hell my oil is going?

My god this car is a freaking nightmare.

CEL codes..........

Only have two codes, which blows my mind!

22 - VTEC pressure valve

43 - Fuel Supply System

Okay, so those are the only two codes from the CEL. Any in depth explanations?

I'm guessing 43 is the fuel pump, which probably is what is causing the car to be sluggish, like not have power at high RPM?