Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

I have a 1996 Accord EX 4-dr sedan. I need to remove the front passenger side door panel to see if I can fix/replace the actuator -- I am getting grinding sounds whenever locking that door. I've downloaded the Accord 96 manual (and all supplements) from the hondatech and hondahookup site. The diagram of the door panel that I've found (page 20-5) refers to non-existent screws in the arm rest. From my door, I've found the following:
1) a horizontal screw in the lock handle area, 2) a vertical screw in the handle area (where I put my hand to pull the door close), a push clip in the front of the door (pressing against the main chassis). I see no other obvious screws.

Are there any instructions on how to safely remove the panel? Any special tool needed? I don't have a trim-pad-remover. but was hoping I could get by with a couple of small screwdrivers.

Thanks

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

Here ya be!

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/How...m_16927/tm.htm

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

Thanks, but the instructions are for a 1994 accord. They refer to a screw on the upper right/left side of the armrest, which doesn't exist in my car. I suppose I could assume that any screw I don't see doesn't exist, but I don't know how much force it will take to remove the door panel and I don't want to break it by forcing it if there's another screw somewhere.

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

its the same generation. should be identical. is it that same side? sedan, coupe?

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

I am removing the passenger side, but I checked the driver side and the screw referred to in the second step:

2) Next remove the screw that is in the upper right hand side of the armrest (also covered...).

simply doesn't exist. It's all fabric.

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

Does the door panel wiggle out/away from the door? I suppose it's possible that it's not there but typically they just put a fancy cover over it so you can't see the screw until you remove that... The door panel should just lift up/off/away from the door, if it doesn't then that screw may be covered.... did you pop off the little clips on the bottom of the panel that hold it to the door?

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

Thanks. It turns out there are only 2 screws for my door. I was able to remove the door panel and I pulled back the plastic sheeting. Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove/replace the actuator. Any instructions or suggestions? It looks really really tight in there and I didn't see how to remove the actuator. It appears to be stuck behind one of the rails used to guide the window. I felt 2 screws in there, but didn't see any way to get a screw driver in there. Does this require some special equipment?

Also, anyone know what the purpose of the plastic sheeting is? It's not watertight since there's a big gash where the door handle rod connects. What happens if I just remove it or cut holes in it?

RE: Removing door panel from 1996 sedan
 

Think of the plastic sheeting as a shower curtain. It won't stop all of the water, but it also won't let the water spray where it shouldn't go. Your window rail and actuator questions should be answer in the DIY I wrote for honda-acura.net:

Disclaimer: I am not liable for any damage done to yourself or your car. Be safe and use logic.

*Note: It's a wise idea to disconnect your batttery. Everytime I unplug stuff in the doors I burn out the fuse that controls the interior dome and courtesy lights, headlight reminder chime, and intermittent windshield wiper operation.*

1. *This is easiest done with the window down.* Remove interior door panel by removing a) the plastic plug near the mirror area, b) the screw behind the door handle, and c) the screw in the hand "cup" near the controls. Remove the plastic triangle that covers the mirror wiring and nuts. There should be one metal clip and one plastic tab holding it on. Next, grab the bottom of the panel, slipping your fingers or a large flat screw driver (warning: may damage paint) and prying the panel towards you swiftly. There are ~10 plastic plugs along the bottom of the panel that lock into the door frame. Pull the bottom out towards you, leaving the lip in the window channel to act as a hinge and unplug all of the controls. Lift the panel straight up out of the window channel and over the lock tab.

2. *This might be an optional step, but it wasn't hard and made the overall install quicker.* To remove the window glass, reconnect the window control (it can be easily removed form the door panel and hung in place while you work) Roll the window up/down until the 2 bolts attaching it to the window motor arm are lined up in the two holes in the door frame. Remove them with a 10mm socket and 3" extension. Don't worry, the window will not fall down. Next, using two hands, pull the window straight up. As it gets closer to the top gently pull it out on the exterior side of the door. BE VERY CAREFUL, THIS IS NOT A CHEAP THING TO REPLACE. Installation is in reverse order.

3. *Also might be option depending on how much access you have to the actuator* Remove the window guide on the latch side (not hinge) of the door. There is a 10mm bolt in the doorframe. Remove that and the weatherstripping in the frame. Pull the guide straight down and out of the hole in the door.

4. Removing the actuator: *Note: the screws are small and easy to lose.* On my 95 Accord there was a plastic panel over and above the actuator attached by one small screw. Remove this. Next, remove the three screws securing the actuator to the latch/lock assembly. Look the down the window channel on the top of the door is you can't see what youre doing. Should come right off; if you are repairing rather than replacing be careful pulling the acutator arm off of the metal rod it moves. Undo the plugs holding the wire to the door frame by pinching the tabs together and pushing them out.

4. Repairing. I took my actuator apart by removing the 4 screws. I connected it and the power lock back to the car and operate it to diagnose what was wrong. On both sides of the actuating arm w/ gear teeth on it inside there are rubber bump stops. The left one stops the arm when the door is unlocked and right stops it when it locks. The right one in my actuator was worn and no longer attached to the actuator case. Since I had a new actuator and little time I just replaced mine, but simply regluing or replacing the rubber with a DIY remedy could save a lot of money.

5. Replacing. Just install the new actuator in reverse order. Before putting the panel on make sure the lock is working. Open and close the door, lock and unlock the lock multiple times to make sure everything is working.