Same old stalling
I got a 1991 Accord EX with Auto and 119k miles. A few days ago, out of nowhere, it sputtered and died and even after cooling off for hours, did not restart. So, after following lots of advice here and other forums, I replaced the cap/rotor, coil, plugs and wires. It started right up after replacing the coil, but now at idle, in park or in gear at a stop, it will sputter differently, and doesn't die, yet. With a.c. on or not it will seem like it wants to die.
So, I removed and cleaned IACV and FITV, as much as I could. Maybe EGR next, from what I hear. But, when a buddy put the rotor and cap on, he lost the spring AND the plastic plug on a nipple on the cap. Not a wire plug nipple, the capped one. So, the old cap spring was shorter than the new one that he lost, so I stretched it to be about the length of what the new one was. And then he said I can cover the cap hole that he broke off with tape and cloth tape, until I get a new one. If they even sell that separately. I'm stupid for not bringing this in to a shop!
The Accord runs great except when warmed up, and reaches idle at stops. No CEL at all. Fuel Pump is working. I ran it with the radiator cap off to bleed out any air, still sputters at idle. Do you think the cap, with the stretched spring that doesn't go to it, and the tape covering the nipple that was capped, is causing this to sputter? Also, I reflowed the main relay. I know this has got to be the most common thing you guys hear, but I'm at a loss, and I've done many things to try to fix it already. Thanks for any help,
Damon
So, I removed and cleaned IACV and FITV, as much as I could. Maybe EGR next, from what I hear. But, when a buddy put the rotor and cap on, he lost the spring AND the plastic plug on a nipple on the cap. Not a wire plug nipple, the capped one. So, the old cap spring was shorter than the new one that he lost, so I stretched it to be about the length of what the new one was. And then he said I can cover the cap hole that he broke off with tape and cloth tape, until I get a new one. If they even sell that separately. I'm stupid for not bringing this in to a shop!
The Accord runs great except when warmed up, and reaches idle at stops. No CEL at all. Fuel Pump is working. I ran it with the radiator cap off to bleed out any air, still sputters at idle. Do you think the cap, with the stretched spring that doesn't go to it, and the tape covering the nipple that was capped, is causing this to sputter? Also, I reflowed the main relay. I know this has got to be the most common thing you guys hear, but I'm at a loss, and I've done many things to try to fix it already. Thanks for any help,
Damon
Last edited by ColoradoAccord; Sep 6, 2010 at 05:22 PM.
Was the engine sputtering before the cap was messed up? If so, my best suggestion is to pick up a new cap. I don't think they sell the parts separately, but I could definitely be wrong.
You should reset the ECU by pulling the backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute.
You should reset the ECU by pulling the backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute.
The only time it sputtered before, was the other day when it sputtered, stopped, and wouldn't start anymore. I just took it to a friends house, checked timing, and it was good. But it wasn't sputtering as bad, and I even drove about 30 miles there and back. It really runs good on the highway, and side roads, I mean it's like it's new
. But now, when turning the car on, it cranks slow, not the fast crank, and light sputtering at idle. I have a red top that I got for my Jeep, but maybe I'll put it in there, if it fits. Do you think battery or alternator would cause the slow crank? Or maybe that cap isn't good being "rigged" in there. I just hope it's not the distributor, because I couldn't afford that right now. I have pulled the fuse and let it sit for about a minute as well. Thank you for the help.
Damon
. But now, when turning the car on, it cranks slow, not the fast crank, and light sputtering at idle. I have a red top that I got for my Jeep, but maybe I'll put it in there, if it fits. Do you think battery or alternator would cause the slow crank? Or maybe that cap isn't good being "rigged" in there. I just hope it's not the distributor, because I couldn't afford that right now. I have pulled the fuse and let it sit for about a minute as well. Thank you for the help.Damon
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gerhard01
Audio/Visual Electronics
3
Oct 20, 2013 10:18 PM




