Spitting sputtering orrible idle 94 accord
 

recently changed bad starter. Ran ok for a while but idled super high rpms.
eventually it dropped to super low rpms and started the spitter and sputter missing .
It will spit sputter miss and then catch and run like it is supposed to.

I checked CEL code and am getting 3 7 and 12.
I accidentally left the paper clip in when I left where I was , with clip in it ran fine not spitting or sputtering and missing still slightly low rpms.

Question is curious if I have messed up the ecm because I did not jump it when I removed alternator to get to starter , afraid timing got off and it is trying to reset ? would that cause those codes to throw

Are the wire colors going to the map sensor (on top of the throttle body) yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel? Or are they grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu?

green and white

There should be three wires going to the map sensor. Do your wire colors match the first set or second set of colors I posted earlier?

first set

The electrical connectors for the map and the tps are the same. You have them hooked up properly.

Check the vacuum hoses that go from the EGR valve to the EGR vacuum controls that are on the driver's side of the car. The Honda vacuum hoses have numbers on them, so I think the EGR controls have the number16 on them. There should also be a sticker under your hood showing how the vacuum hoses are routed.

Removing the alternator or starter you don't need to jumper the SCS connector, so that doesn't screw anything up.

Quick cursory check I did not see anything loose or looking out of place .. but I have been hearing a hissing sound coming from that area for about 10 seconds after shutting it off .. sounds like it is on fire wall on right side

Remove the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. Put fuse back in (this clears the codes). Start the car up and wait for the check engine light to turn on, then turn off the car. Recheck the codes. Let us know what codes come up.

will do in the AM.. wife is yelling at me some in for the night

Hissing sound on firewall right side? You mean as you're looking at it? Driver's side? Maybe it's a leaking brake booster.

yea drivers side , late night could not think with toddlers and wife in my ear . would that cause the other codes to pop up

I don't have my code list with me right now... what's 12, EGR? I don't think it'll cause that. Vacuum leak would cause surging idle, & some of that stuff.

There's a vacuum hose from the intake manifold back to the vacuum-booster at the brake master-cylinder. Anything leaking in that hose? There's a plastic check-valve in that hose, that might be broken? Check that stuff out; maybe try to pinpoint the location of the hissing sound.

I had to deal with a code 12 recently, that's for EGR lift sensor. I understood it as meaning the ECU requested that the valve be lifted/opened but when it polls the valve lift sensor it finds that the valve hasn't actually gone up and throws the code.

The thing about this is that it could be because the EGR diaphragm is torn and it can't hold a vacuum OR it could be a problem with the vacuum coming to the EGR valve. In our case the EGR valve was tested for vacuum and it held. We traced the lines and found an unplugged line which was plugged in and got rid of the code. So the EGR valve couldn't lift even though it could hold vacuum because a line in the stream was unplugged.

So if his EGR valve holds a vacuum (something he can test easily) in the presence of this code I think he has a vacuum leak of some sort due to the fact that the EGR valve is not lifting even though vacuum is good.

If you want to test the EGR valve for vacuum, just unplug the vacuum hose that goes in to it, pull up on the diaphragm, plug that hole the vacuum hose was on, let go of diaphragm while holding over that hole. The diaphragm should not come down. If it comes down even though you have your finger over that hole, it means the diaphragm is not air tight and the valve should be replaced.

Well, if that's it, the EGR being a vacuum-leak might cause some of that other stuff. Worth a good look at vacuum hoses etc.