Well it wasn't the loose distributor rotor. it seems to be fine once I get over 2,500 rpms or so. Up until then though it sputters and hesitates until slowly getting up to speed/rpm then boom it's like a switch is turned and takes off. All while the rpms are just bouncing all over with lightening speed. Any ideas?

 

The oil light only blinks after it stalls a few times. I low oil pressure I imagine. It doesn't link all the time.

 

I was reading about possibly having a Lot of junk in the gas tank. Does anyone think it's possible that I have debris stuck on the pump screen and that it's restricting the flow of fuel at times? I did run it way lower than usual before I filled the tank the last time. Just a thought..

 

I have been driving around like this and it seems like it's something fuel related. almost always now the car hesitates and shutters with no power until it gets up to a certain rpm and then it's fine. Once at higher rpm it doesn't stall. If I keep it in a lower gear or give it a lot of gas to down shift then it smooths out and is fine until I need to stop accelerating and let off the throttle.

If it's doing it and I let off the gas it cuts right out, then I pop it in neutral and it fires back up sometimes needing to have a lot of throttle and once started If I floor it I take off again.

Whenever it does this though, the tachometer needle is bouncing all over not just a little like from 0 to redline while the motor isn't actually doing that. The motor sounds like it's at a smooth rpm. Someone mentioned a coil causing the needle to do this and cause similar problems. Also I read an egr valve could explain the throttle issue to act that way?

I'm open to any ideas. Driving my 9-10 mpg truck to work 20 miles each way is a little less kind on my wallet!

 

I inquired about any ignition maintenance and you advised plugs, wire, cap, and rotor. Coil or ignitor can cause RPM fluctuations. RPM fluctuates because ignition system sends signals based on spark generation to the tachometer. If spark signal is missing, then fluctuations in RPM occur.

Fuel pressure problem is unlikely. Usually fuel pressure is either OK or no-start, only rarely in between. If you hear the fuel pump come on every time you turn keyswitch to On, run 2-3 secs and cut off, then fuel pressure is very likely to be fine.

good luck

 

So Im gonna check the coil and Icm next like you suggested Texas. I did clean egr and it was very clogged. No change though after fixing it. I dont feel any vacuum going to it though?

I put some vacuum via mouth on the valve itself and I hear it move but no vacuum coming from the line at low or higher rpms? I traced it back into the box with the mess of vacuum tubes and map sensor etc And connections all look good. Could it be the egr vacuum solenoid valve is bad or stuck? I'll have to search forums. Meanwhile I'll focus on the ignition.

The car while parked seems to increase in rpms smoothly if you slowly increase throttle, when you punch it, it stumbles then dies when completely letting off gas afterwards. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

Focus on the ignition for now.

You cleaned the valve but there are "EGR Ports" that need to be cleaned as well. On the 4th gen's there are either "plugs" that have to be removed or some of the early 4th gens have to be drilled and then tap for a screw.

 

Poorman, do you recommend pulling all the plugs to clean ports? Seems like a lot of work so focusing on ignition makes more sense like you said.

I did read a site where a guy said spray a whole can of carb cleaner into egr valve hole while it's running to clean it out? Does anyone think that's a bad idea?

 

My personal opinion, focus on the ignition. Tach "jumping" with no change in the engine is more towards ICM or coil. If the egr valve, you cleaned it, was "hanging open" then I would be worried...an open egr at idle will stall a car.

I don't think doing that "cleaning" will do anything. The open port(s) will take all of the cleaner and nothing will really change.

Sorry to have confused things, just wanted to be sure that you understood there was more to EGR cleaning than just the valve.

 

I was doing some troubleshooting on the distributor and found the resistance between the primary positive and primary negative terminals on the coil was 1.2 ohms and its supposed to be between .6&.8 ohms.

Looks like I'll replace the coil and cross my fingers?