Have a 95 accord with f22 non vtec swap was running fine until one day I came out after going to the store and the starter just clicked. Tapped it did nothing. Took starter off tested with battery and it worked fine took it to testing place it read bad. Installed another starter and it did the same thing so I took that one in and it tested good. I messed around with some ground and added a couple and engine turned over after few cranks or clicked again battery is fully charged. Don't know what else to do.

 

Nice to have you joined up here in the HAF..

 

Possible ignition switch issue. Next time it doesn't start test for voltage going to the small wire going to the starter while someone inside tries to start the car. However, the ignition switch going bad is usually intermittent so by the time you try to test the ignition switch contacts could be fixed by then.

I would suggest doing a voltage drop test on the Start position by removing the steering column covers and having access to the ignition switch. Then put a multimeter to the 20v setting and putting alligator clips on the yellow/black wire solder joint coming into the ignition switch and the other alligator clip on the Start solder joint on the other outside and trying to start the car. You should see less than a volt. If you see more than 5 volts or so the ignition switch contacts are bad and the resistance is pushing the voltage through your multimeter instead of through the ignition switch contacts.

 

If the starter clicks you are down to, a battery issue, cable or starter. You have power going to the small terminal on the starter. You eliminated the starter as a cause and are down to the battery or cables. If you haven't already clean the battery terminals and load test the battery. Your post is common to a cable issue or dirty battery cable connection.

 

I had an intermittant problem with the starter not cranking on my 2006 V6 Accord. To make a long story short, replacing the starter/solenoid assy and cleaning and replacing the positive battery clamp fixed the problem. I don't know if the problem was one or the other or both but I did not want to take a chance and get stranded. Since you already replaced the starter, you might want to take a look at the positive battery clamp. I don't know if your positive clamp is put together like mine was but, the 2 cables joined at the clamp were just crimped and liquid acid or acid fumes permeated the ends of the cables and put a green film on all the strands of the cables. This coating went up 4" from the ends of the cables. I uncrimped the cables from the clamp and soaked the cables in a solution of water and baking soda. I did this around 4 or 5 times before the solution was not turning blue. I then wrapped the strands of the cables with tinned wire and soldered the ends. Put a new heavy duty cables clamp on and I've had no problems since.

 

Ok I cleaned the cables cleaned starter and tried it and it finally turned over no clicking! But now it won't start. It's getting gas I checked that by removing line into fuel rail and it has pressure. Removed plug wire and it is getting spark but it still not even attempt to start. And I tried starter fluid and it still does not attempt to start at all. Motor is from 96 accord non vtec but the wiring harness is from the ex with vtec and computer is the vtec one along with the trans computer. When we installed it it ran fine then the starter issue happened. Could somehow ecu gone bad or something ?

 

No-start w/ starter fluid (suggest repeating) indicates spark is not adequate. This has happened to others, and is usually a weak coil problem.

Engine should start briefly w/ starter fluid (be sure to give a 5-10 second spray).

good luck

 

You might want to check the main ground on the engine (g101). Drivers end of the TB/Plenum.

 

So it should still be attempting to start even if the ecu was bad while using starter fluid?

 

ECU is supposed to be fail safe, but there is significant input to ignition from ECU, so may be possible for ECU to fail an cause no-start.

I've had no-start due to false codes (ECU defect) so it's possible.

However, since you are getting spark, it is more likely a spark fault; coil, ignitor.

If you have a timing light, you could also check spark timing is occurring ~ 15 btdc.

good luck