stuck parking break because of temperature??
 

It got down to about 27 degrees last night, when I got into my vehicle it did not work properly. And my parking break did not go down all the way when I released it. (did not work properly means that there was an obvious drag on the vehicle).

I drove it about 1 mile and began to smell metal burning. I continued to drive it 1 more mile to the store and parked it when I got there. When I came out of the store the parking brake released properly and there was no drag on the vehicle. So it was operating exactly like it normally did.

Am I safe to assume that this was cold weather and no other condition/malfunction likely exists. Basically I am asking if I need to worry about anything or not. (if I am aware of a problem I can plan for it, I know it seems like an obvious answer, but I like to prepare for car repairs whenever possible)

Thanks

... Edit ...
What brake fluid do 2005 Honda Accord 4 cylinder take?

Has it been raining a lot where you are? Just asking, as I didn't have any trouble last week when it was -11. But I have had issues on other cars even in the summer months with a lot of rain causing the drum to rust to the brake pad material.

DoT 3 usually. Doesn't have to be Honda only fluid either.

I'm in Portand Oregon. So it is usually wet all winter unless it gets cold and turns to ice (that is rare).

I also checked my brake fluid. it is between high and low but closer to low, so I will top it off too. Any DOT 3 will do, if I understand correctly.

But it sounds like there is nothing to worry about here with the E brake.

Thanks for answering

With different car I used to have issues with p brake freezing up after going thru some puddles if it's below freezing.
For decades, unless I'm parking on a steep incline, I don't use parking brake at all - rather leave it in 1st gear.

Based on your description, your rear brake pads are dragging. You should inspect the rear brake pads/calipers.

Check if the caliper pivot is binding where the parking brake attaches. Check the caliper pins for lubrication, brake pads move smoothly, the caliper piston should be able to retract. Properly draining the brake fluid may help. The brake master cylinder cap should say what fluid it takes. Take a look in your owner's manual to see if it is DOT3 or DOT4.

I didn't use my e brake for years with my Saturn. I just turned the wheel toward the curb and left it in first. That was because the E brake did not work well. I always had to look for a level place to park.
The place I park is level so I can do that now too. Is there an advantage to not using the E brake, in a mechanical sense. Does it increase the brakes lifetime or something like that.

And thanks PAHonda, I checked into it. Turns out my brake fluid is closer to the low line than it is to the full line. So I will add some brake fluid and ask my buddy, who works on cars all the time, if the brake pads look worn and that is why the brake fluid is low.
.............
Frankly, I don't know a lot about cars so my policy is always to watch for weird stuff and then ask. I have been stranded by a broken down vehicle, I did not enjoy it at all. So i very much appreciate all of you who responded and helped me out.

.....Edit.....
I can see right through my wheel to the brakes. Maybe I can assess this myself. How much brake pad should there be to be safe.
is this a reasonable method to check it with because I have wheels that I can see through to the rotors

That'll let you look at the outside, but not the inside. Most pads when new are between 3/8ths and a 1/2 inch thick each, depending on the vehicle. Some are thicker, and some are thinner. Usually I've found that if the fluid level is down, it's due for pads, unless you have a fluid leak (1 or the other).

I am pretty sure it is not a leak, so it is likely pads.

One last question (maybe).

Is Mobile One really that great of oil, or will any full synthetic work just about as well. Mobile One has some pretty fantastic claims. I think they say their oil is good for 15 000 miles and the filter is good for 20, 000 or something like that.

I decided I need an oil change too.

15k on an oil change I don't trust at all. I have a BMW and the change interval is 15k by manual and I haven't gone over 9k. On my 07 accord since new I've put the Walmart special (lol) oil full synthetic in with a 10k filter. My change interval is 8500 (when tested I can get more but choose not to). In theory with the newer cars full synthetic is pointless but it make me feel good. I get all my cars oil tested once a year to see if I need to change my interval and other things.

Oil change intervals will differ with the owner views and type of car. Some might say they can get 15k out of there oil and that is there interval. Some might say they can but won't dare. If you are going for a long life oil be sure your filter is rated the same. Also I would suggest you get your oil test to make sure it's lubricating efficiently for your interval. If you're interested below is the site I get mine done. You will be surprised with what you can find out.

blackstone