surging at any rpm while driving
 

Hello, I cleaned the egr plenum and ports on my 96 accord ex, auto, 2.2 vtec. This got rid of the misfire and cleared the CEL. That was two weeks ago, has been running well until today. Now there is a bad surging at any rpm while driving, you can see the rpm fluctuate around 500 rpm. The idle is fine, no surging that I can see. I have searched for this but have come up with other variations of my problem, mostly a surge at idle. There is no check engine light. The car has around 180k miles.

Suggest checking your installation of fuel injectors to the intake manifold and fuel rail to make sure all orings are in place and sealing. Leaking FI might cause this problem, and not show up at idle.

Check all your EGR vacuum line connections. Check EGR valve movement. EGR valve sticking open might cause this problem. I don't know if that would set an EGR code, but it should cause idle problems if stuck open at idle.

good luck

I did check the rail/injectors and everything looks good, all in place and no leaks. The Egr was moving, by hand, when I had the plenum apart for cleaning. No surging at idle and no codes. Possible fuel filter issues?

I'll assume you "feel" the surge in the engine and not just see it on the tach?

You said something about the fuel filter, are the other maint items good? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs.

The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are new a couple thousand miles ago.I have a fuel filter on hand and will change it before I drive the car again. The surge is a definate "buck" when driving at all speeds. The rpm will drop and rise rapidly- around 500 at a time.

Just to rule it out, how about checking the adjustment of the transmission cable from the throttle body down to the trans. It might be the torque converter locking & unlocking.

okay, I will check that out too. Thinking about it now, when the "techs" at the dealership put the new throttle body on, the cable might be not adjusted right. thanks Jim

just a quick update- checked the tranny downshift cable tonight after work and the downshift lever starts to move immediately in unison with the throttle. so next I will change the fuel filter because I have one on hand. I have my doubts that it is what is causing the surging. Could the EGR or IACV be cycling causing this?

I have occasionally seen posts of mysterious drivability symptoms being resolved by a new O2 sensor. If yours is over 80K miles, you might consider this option. You can find a new O2 sensor at a reasonable price; rockauto, ebay, etc.

good luck

Ok, I will add it to the list! thanks:)

ok, had a little time to look at the car today. changed the fuel filter. when I started the car before the filter change, the CEL came on. I did the change and went for a drive, the light stayed on but did not flash. The torque converter appears not to lock up now and when the transmission upshifts, it won't do it until just under 3000 rpm and the shifts are harsh. Not sure whats going on with this crazy car now! I never had a chance to read the code yet with the obdII. When I took it for a drive, there was no bucking at any speed.:confused:

The check engine light staying on means a code was stored. Stop by a parts store and have them read the code. The connector is behind the ash tray.

Post the code on here. It will start with the letter P and have 4 numbers.

I do have an OBDII, I just haven't had the time to pull the code. Thanks anyway!

Well, the saga continues. I still have to get the obdII from my dad to read the cel code. I changed the transmission oil and went for a drive. The shifting came right back to normal and the rpm dropped back to normal at cruising speed. Great I thought, maybe I'll be brave and reset the CEL. I stopped, pulled the fuse, did the reset. Started the car, CEL was gone. Perfect, took off down the highway, the jerking and bucking is back!! Now I am back to square one, but at least I know that a oil change will clear up the delayed shifts, etc. I guess I will try and clean the shift solenoids tomorrow unless anyone has any other ideas. I still haven't ruled out the 02 sensor as was mentioned before, but will try the solenoids first.:(

You can check the 96 accord for code(s) the OBD1 way. The OBD2 scanner will give codes with more information in some cases.

Use a piece of wire or a thin paperclip to short the blue two pin connector under the glove box. Then turn the key to the II position. Your car will only have the two pin connector under the glove box.

Count the CEL codes (long blink =10, short=1), so LLLS=41
Count the D4 light flashes (only short blinks).

See: dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html

The scanners at the parts stores like autozone can read the code(s) for you. It is a free service.

Well, I pulled the codes today , both codes were for the shift solenoids that I verified the resistance on and forgot to plug back in before I hooked up the obdII. Dummy! anyway, the car shifts great, etc from a cold start with the engine warmed up but it seems that when the transmission gets warm is when the bucking starts. I am baffled now, have verified no air in the coolant, FITV, IACV, the EGR valve looks okay and moves freely. I cleaned both sets of transmission solenoids and verified the resistance as well as putting 12 v to them and they both click. Possible torque converter no good? The obd had pending codes on the o2 sensor and heater, but would not complete the scan of the systems. I waited probably 10 minutes. As mentioned before, maybe an 02 sensor issue? maybe I will check it out electrically. Not sure what else to check.....getting frustrated!!!

Were you ever able to resolve this matter? I’m having the same issues described
 

Were you ever able to resolve this matter? I’m having the same issues and I have no idea what to do. ☹️