Tricky issue with 2005 accord cluster / car not turning on
 

Hello

I have a veryyyy strange problem. My 2005 accord wagon recently wouldn't turn on. Im pretty good with cars, very fond of car electrical systems and mechanically inclined. I inserted the key into the ignition and went to turn it on and the cluster didn't turn on. The car cranks but doesnt turn over. Checked all the fuses and none blow. Triple checked fuse 21 which is the one that controls that and its just fine. After doing that i took a power prob and checked all the fuses one by one. I noticed the cluster was showing negative with the key in on any position. I gave it power and bamn cluster turned on. Turned the key car turned on. Then i removed the power prob and car died and cluster shut off. Gave it power and everything came back on and car turned on. Is there a relay that could of went bad? Maybe the main relay? Does the ignition have anything to do with the electrical to the cluster?

Any input/suggestions/diagrams will be greatly appreciated

1. What exactly do you mean by "the cluster was showing negative with the key in on any position"? No power/voltage is not exactly the same as a negative voltage reading on a voltmeter.

2. Which wire did you give power to and the cluster turned on and the car started? What was the wire color?

Even though you stated you checked all fuses, it sounds like either a blown under-dash No. 7 (10A) backup fuse or an open in the wiring from that fuse. The No. 7 backup fuse provides power to the immobilizer control unit-receiver, gauge control module, MICU, as well as a few more components.

When you applied power to the whatever wire and it turned on, you're most likely back-feeding the components in the circuits.

By negative i meant no power. To fuse #21.

I fed power directly to fuse #21 so not sure exactly what color the wire would be.

I just rechecked fuse #7 and it was not blown.

Weird part is. I drove the car perfectly fine to the store. Got out went shopping, got back in and then the issue started.

Okay, your first post meant that there was no power at the under-dash fuse 21 (not just the gauge). The under-dash fuse 21 feeds several components and gets power via a Blk/Yel wire when the ignition switch is turned to ON or START.

1. First check the under-hood number 23 multi-fuse (it has two 50A fuse built into it) to see if it is blown.
2. If the under-hood number 23 multi-fuse (50A/50A) was not blown, then it may be an ignition switch or wiring/connection issue. The White wire from the number 23 fuse (hot at all times) goes to the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned ON or START, power from a Blk/Yel wire goes to the under-dash fuse 21.

A 2005 Accord Wagon? Where do you live?

Thanks for the images. Just got some time to check it out today. Under hood #23 fuse is good. Took it out checked it out n its fine.

Ill make a video tomorrow to show you guys how weird this is. I have a OEM remote start that came with the car and the damn car remote starts perfectly fine.
Im in NJ lol

Is this a Crosstour?

Lol they didnt make crosstours in 2005 lol

Here is the video,

Is this you in this video with the 2005 JDM RHD Accord Wagon?

1. At the ignition switch 6P connector, located at the under-dash fuse/relay box, check for power/voltage at the White wire (this suppose to be Hot at all times). If there is no power, there is an open in the White wire between this and the under-hood fuse/relay box.

2. If there is power at the White wire, you will want to backprobe the Blk/Yel wire for power at the same 6P connector. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...back-probe-jpg

There should be power at the Blk/Yel wire with the ignition on.