Trying to Diagnose Oil Leak on 98 Accord
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 8
Trying to Diagnose Oil Leak on 98 Accord [SOLVED]
I read through the oil leak posts and I didn't find anything similar to my problem so I'm posting. I just got this noticeable oil leak on my 1998 Accord LX this weekend. The oil is definitely coming from the little hole from the transmission cover on the bottom of the engine, that I assume is a drain whole for this kind of leakage. The oil only comes out when the engine is started & running. I don't see oil leaking if the engine is not running and there's no oil I can see leaking from the top of the engine. The car has just over 200K miles so I'm hoping this is a common high-mileage Accord problem and someone knows the fix and how much will it cost me if I had it fixed by a mechanic. I've done other repairs on my Accord so does this fall under a DIY job that I can do myself, and what's the procedure to do it?
Last edited by famu97; Jan 24, 2014 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Updating to reflect that my problem has been solved
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,184
From: Chesterfield MI 48047
In that area you have the rear of the oil pan and the rear main seal. The back of the oil pan should run down the front of the trans shield. Inside of it would be the rear main mostly. To replace the trans and flywheel are removed and replaced.
Almost A Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 328
From: Redwood City, CA 94065
How much of a leak do you have?
If it's rear main seal and you only get a drip or two each time you stop the car, then the rear seal just might be hard and need to be softened up ... in which case I would try playing with additives and oil weight before shelling out $800 to have the $15 rear main seal replaced. To do this ...
Try adding Barrs Rear Main Seal Leak stop and see what happens for a week or two, then change the oil. People have recommended against leaving this stuff in too long, so just a couple of weeks max to see if it can soften the rubber up enough for it to seal better.
If the leak appears to be stopping, then just use the same oil as before and monitor. If you are on regular oil, try high mileage oil which already has some of the leak stop additive in it.
If the leak doesn't appear to be stopping, then increase oil weight, e.g. 5w30 -> 5w40 or 10w40.
If this leak started suddenly and is more than a few drops here and there, then it sounds like the rear seal could be failing in a big way. Again it's a $15 part, but the cost to get to it is immense. If you can get a price from a mechanic that's much cheaper than $800 please let us know.
If it's rear main seal and you only get a drip or two each time you stop the car, then the rear seal just might be hard and need to be softened up ... in which case I would try playing with additives and oil weight before shelling out $800 to have the $15 rear main seal replaced. To do this ...
Try adding Barrs Rear Main Seal Leak stop and see what happens for a week or two, then change the oil. People have recommended against leaving this stuff in too long, so just a couple of weeks max to see if it can soften the rubber up enough for it to seal better.
If the leak appears to be stopping, then just use the same oil as before and monitor. If you are on regular oil, try high mileage oil which already has some of the leak stop additive in it.
If the leak doesn't appear to be stopping, then increase oil weight, e.g. 5w30 -> 5w40 or 10w40.
If this leak started suddenly and is more than a few drops here and there, then it sounds like the rear seal could be failing in a big way. Again it's a $15 part, but the cost to get to it is immense. If you can get a price from a mechanic that's much cheaper than $800 please let us know.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 8
How much of a leak do you have?
If it's rear main seal and you only get a drip or two each time you stop the car, then the rear seal just might be hard and need to be softened up ... in which case I would try playing with additives and oil weight before shelling out $800 to have the $15 rear main seal replaced. To do this ...
Try adding Barrs Rear Main Seal Leak stop and see what happens for a week or two, then change the oil. People have recommended against leaving this stuff in too long, so just a couple of weeks max to see if it can soften the rubber up enough for it to seal better.
If the leak appears to be stopping, then just use the same oil as before and monitor. If you are on regular oil, try high mileage oil which already has some of the leak stop additive in it.
If the leak doesn't appear to be stopping, then increase oil weight, e.g. 5w30 -> 5w40 or 10w40.
If this leak started suddenly and is more than a few drops here and there, then it sounds like the rear seal could be failing in a big way. Again it's a $15 part, but the cost to get to it is immense. If you can get a price from a mechanic that's much cheaper than $800 please let us know.
If it's rear main seal and you only get a drip or two each time you stop the car, then the rear seal just might be hard and need to be softened up ... in which case I would try playing with additives and oil weight before shelling out $800 to have the $15 rear main seal replaced. To do this ...
Try adding Barrs Rear Main Seal Leak stop and see what happens for a week or two, then change the oil. People have recommended against leaving this stuff in too long, so just a couple of weeks max to see if it can soften the rubber up enough for it to seal better.
If the leak appears to be stopping, then just use the same oil as before and monitor. If you are on regular oil, try high mileage oil which already has some of the leak stop additive in it.
If the leak doesn't appear to be stopping, then increase oil weight, e.g. 5w30 -> 5w40 or 10w40.
If this leak started suddenly and is more than a few drops here and there, then it sounds like the rear seal could be failing in a big way. Again it's a $15 part, but the cost to get to it is immense. If you can get a price from a mechanic that's much cheaper than $800 please let us know.
thanks everyone for replying and I'll touch base when I have more info.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 8
Thanks for the replies and I'll touch base with what I find.
Almost A Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 328
From: Redwood City, CA 94065
Back there it's the crankshaft seal, more commonly called the "rear main seal" ... the cam is on top of the engine and doesn't have a seal on the tranny side because the distributor is there with its O-ring.
Just want to make sure you sound as competent as possible when you speak to the mechanic
Just want to make sure you sound as competent as possible when you speak to the mechanic
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 8
Back there it's the crankshaft seal, more commonly called the "rear main seal" ... the cam is on top of the engine and doesn't have a seal on the tranny side because the distributor is there with its O-ring.
Just want to make sure you sound as competent as possible when you speak to the mechanic
Just want to make sure you sound as competent as possible when you speak to the mechanic
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,184
From: Chesterfield MI 48047
Look at the top of the engine also for leaks. It is slightly possible for a valve cover gasket to drip over the trans at the back of the cylinder head. I don't think a rear main seal is very common on a Honda.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 8
So i have another follow-up question. looking in the Haynes manual for the removal of that cover plate (engine stiffener plate), the oil pan butts right up against the rear main seal retainer plate. if i remove that cover plate, will I be able to definitively pin-point (see) that the oil leak is either the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal?