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Violent engine shaking?
I bought my 98 Accord LX, automatic, about a month ago, and about four times since then, I've pulled up to a stop light, or came to a stop, and the engine will start shaking really violently. It almost feels like its a manual and its about to die, its hard to explain. Its been happening more and more often. It has 124k miles on it, so I got the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs replaced, but it still acts up randomly. Like I said, it doesn't happen all the time, but Id like to know if anyone knows whats wrong with it so I can get it fixed ):
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
sounds like misfires, or bad timeing, check ur distributor replace the plug wires(people tend to over look the wires)
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
When it starts shaking/shuddering, what are the RPMs at?
Also, a broken engine mount can cause horrible shaking too. |
RE: Violent engine shaking?
when mine broke, before i knew, i would slam the glass becasue the on ramp to the highway was really messed up and you had about 10 feet to merge and i would feel a very loud thunk
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
ORIGINAL: finch13 When it starts shaking/shuddering, what are the RPMs at? Also, a broken engine mount can cause horrible shaking too. |
RE: Violent engine shaking?
ORIGINAL: Tippman7641 when mine broke, before i knew, i would slam the glass becasue the on ramp to the highway was really messed up and you had about 10 feet to merge and i would feel a very loud thunk |
RE: Violent engine shaking?
open ur hood, push the throatle cable, the engine should have no more then 2-3 inchs of movment, when my mounts where broken it was like 5-6 inchs or movment
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
theres not too much moving normally, but Ill go check it out and report back later, thanks (:
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
Broken engine mounts are typically noted by the car wanting to peal out every time you move from a dead stop ..... but then again, I blew all 5.
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RE: Violent engine shaking?
A 1998 automatic 4-cyl has a vacuum-operated rear engine mount. Its controlled to get very soft at idle in P or R. Any other time it goes back to its normal stiffer state.
Test it... Crawl around & look for the rear mount, buried down between the engine & firewall. Make sure the vacuum hose is connected to it. Find the solenoid valve on the vacuum hose, & unplug the wiring connector. Warm up the car, have someone put it in DRIVE & stand on the brake. You go up & unplug that wiring plug, or plug it back in. It should make a tremendous difference in the shaking you feel inside the car. If theres no difference, you have narrowed it down to that mount. Now you have to figure out whether its a busted solenoid valve, bad wiring in the car (for that circuit), or maybe the mount itself is bad. |
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