Weak coolant pressure
 

Im not sure why but on my 95 accord when i went to bleed my coolant i did it the way i was supposed to and the car was warmed up good but i wasnt getting much coolant out of my bleeder valve. any help would be great thank you

I guess it's possible for the bleeder screw to be plugged with crud. With everything cold, remove the screw completely & take a look.

If your thermostat is stuck open, maybe the system wasn't actually warmed up?

Did you do this with the radiator cap on or off?

Was the car parked down hill so the bleeder is at a higher elevation than the radiator cap?

Whenever I have bled my system I just started the car, ran it till the air stopped hissing from the bleeder and some coolant started coming out then I closed it.

What pressure do you expect to see there?

I thought the bleeder valve was clogged up before so I took it out and cleaned it out. Than on a flat surface got the car to operating temperature with the radiator cap off first, and only got a little bit of bubbles and coolant came out and it stopped and a little more coolant came out and when it would stop the coolant was just sitting on top of the bleeder valve like it doesn't want to come out at all. And then I did the same thing with the radiator cap on and still got the same thing, I'm not sure if this is normal or not be cause i just bought the car off of someone and had to go over the whole thing because the guy i bought it off of said he swapped out the motor and couldn't keep it running when he stopped at a stop sign or red light. And so I found that he had the vacuum line switched around wrong and the car wasn't grounded right and now i fixed those problems its just that now it idles between 500 and 750 when i come to stops and i thought that might be the problem and another thing is that my RPM's wont go passed 4500 and it just seems like it looses power and sounds kinda like it back fireing in a way. And any help would be much appreciated.

So you've got more going on than just air in the cooling system.

With the radiator cap open, there will be very little pressure at the bleed screw. Only the elevation difference to the cap. The radiator cap & the bleed screw are the 2 high points in the system where air bubbles will collect.

After running it & allowing it to get hot, then let it cool down so the radiator hoses are soft. Now open the radiator cap & fill the radiator. Then open the bleeder & allow it to dribble out.

You might have to fill the radiator right up to the neck then still it only dribbles out of the bleeder. Let it bubble out until you get a (low-pressure) flow of coolant without any bubbles.

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Then you might still want to do the procedure of setting the BASE idle. Search for that in the DIY section.