Will not stay started on initial start - 98 4cyl VTEC Accord
 

I turn the key over, leave go, car doesn't start.
I turn the key over, hold it so the starter stays engaged, can gun engine while starter is engaged, but as soon as I turn the key back, engine stops.

I did put wired, plugs, rotor and cap on it just to knock out the basics.

I live in Northern California so it is still cold in the mornings. I have noticed that the car starts fine in the cold/chilly mornings, but if I leave around 1PM when it is much warmer, the car won't stay started.

I keep trying to start it, key on, key off over and over again, sometimes a quick on/off, sometimes I wait, eventually it starts and stays started.

Lately it has stayed started after the initial failed start, but sometimes it cuts off in traffic which makes me very nervous.

It has been doing this for a little over a month. It started when it was unusually warm then when weather turned cold again, it stopped doing it, now that it has been warmer, it is back again. When it started doing this, it cut off a lot along the road to my house, but lately once it starts after that initial failed start, it stays started most of the time.

Thanks for reading.

Two possible.

1. Does the CEL light come on for a few seconds and then go off- key to On/position II, watch for the CEL and listen for the fuel pump, they go off at the same time.

2. These do have a recall for a bad ign switch/electrical part. Call your delaer and see if it was done before....look for a free on. Even if it has been done, as the only replace it with the same design (?), it can be bad.

CEL comes on and I can hear the fuel pump wind. Also, sometimes the CEL comes on and stays on, but then it turns off after a while of being on. I thought CELs stayed on until disconnecting the battery?

Any other suggestion besides fuel pump? I thought it might be as simply as a gas cap, but when I take the cap off, I can hear lots of air escape.

You should have the codes read. Most parts stores will do this. The codes will be stored on the PCM unless you disconnect the battery cables.

When the engine is running, can you get the car to stall out by shaking the key?

Earlier tonight, as I was driving, I shook the key in every imaginable direction.... the car didn't shut down.

Tonight, I also noticed that the CEL light comes on for 2 or 3 seconds in key position 2 and the fuel pump does wind, but if I shut the car off for 2 minutes then start it again, the CEL light will do its thing, but the fuel pump doesn't wind. Even though the fuel isn't winding every time, the care does start. As I was trying to hear the fuel pump wind on repeat car on/off, I took the gas cap off to relieve pressure, but that made no difference, I still didn't hear the pump wind although the car would start fine without it winding.

I will scout some parts stores tomorrow to see if any will lend a code scanner.

I thought that maybe the heat factor would point to something in particular. I know my car will start right now, because it is chilly out side. Tomorrow at 1PM, in the heat, it probably will not start. Even though it won't start right away in the heat, I can't imagine why it starts after a few tries (sometimes the next try, but usually it will start after 6 or 7 or 8 tries).

Check the codes. If I'm reading this correct, I'd also pull the main relay and look for bad connections.

Using the 95. Everytime you cycle the key from off to on/position two, the CEL and pump should come on for a few seconds and them go off.

So this thing of the CEL coming on and staying on while the key is on/pos II...Then to add when it is cold/cool outside it will work, but when hot/warm outside it will not...........main relay

I agree with Poorman about the main relay.

In my experience, the engine will never start if fuel pump doesn't run.

From your first post, the problem as described suggest ignition keyswitch may be failing, particularly first two sentences of original post. Shaking the mechanical keyswitch may not affect the electrical part. They are separate w/ a mechanical key which links them phsyically. Not sure how much motion can be transferred through that link.

Suggest checking the black/yellow wire to the distributor for power. Best to rig a full time tell-tale light to monitor. No power = no start and would confirm igntion switch assy.

good luck

I tried twice this morning to hear the fuel pump prime, but didn't hear it even though the car did start (chilly out today).

Just to clarify, when I turn the key to position 2, i see the CEL on for about 3 seconds then it goes off... while it is on, I can't hear the fuel pump do anything. Sometimes I do hear the fuel pump, however.

I stopped by the dealership today. I have an appointment on Thursday to get the ignition (recall part) replaced.

I stopped by several parts stores today also and they tell me that CA has outlawed them from lending code readers (I'm not sure if this is true, but that is what one store said). Does anyone know of any cheap code readers available online that actually work?

Didn't want this one to go without a final reply from the OP. If I do not reply further then you can consider the recalled ignition the issue. The dealer installed two separate recalled ignition parts and since then it has always started first try and has never cut off as my wife or I were driving. I had to wait to update this post, because here in Northern California it has been quite cold until very recently (first week of low 70 degree weather last week, but the mornings were still very chilly).

Thanks for helping - put this one in the solved column guys!