Recently purchased 94 Accord EX (F22B1) 2.2L VTEC 5spd Sedan. Starter was going out when took ownership.After replacing the starter it still wouldn't start. No spark. Ive replaced ICM & coil, still no start or spark. I get voltage at coil and ICM with ignition on ACC. Every time I turn the ignition to Start engine it immediately blows the PGM-FI fuse ( #33 in Eng. Cmpt. Fuse panel).. Ive double checked the wiring to coil, ICM, with a shop manual. Everything Appears correct. What is causing the fuse to blow whenever I turn the ignition over ? Even tried changing the PGM-FI relay. No change. How do I trace and fix the fuse from blowing so I hopefully have Spark again ? I will lose my job soon if I cant fix it.

 

Search YouTube for pgmfi relay video from "scannerdanner" its a pretty good place to start.
but other things that come to mind are;
incorrect fuse size_just because it was in there doesn't mean the person before you put the right one in;
excess current draw from/by/to the starter_ you could try to measure current draw or try removing wires to the starter and try cranking to see if it still blows. Obviously it won't crank without a starter, but you need to narrow down where in the circuit the problem is occurring.
it all began with the starter so that's where id start, no pun intended.


Oh and check your ecu for blown capacitors. Had a similar issue myself last summer. Well minus the blowing fuse.

 

The #33 fuse protects the PGM-FI and the alternator. Disconnect the electrical connections from the alternator. Use some electrical tape around the large wire to prevent it from shorting to ground. Try starting the car to see if the fuse still blows with the alternator isolated.

 

The circuit diagram I have shows the US accords #33 fuse to only tie to the pgmfi relay and not the alternator. The alternator runs right back into the fuse box side by side to the cable from battery if I'm not mistaken.

 

I was looking at the non-US Accord wiring diagram. The US accord only shows the PGM-FI on that fuse and not the alternator.

 

I've tried disconnecting the alternator. Both leads. The #33 fuse still blows. I've checked the EFI resister, disconnecting the lead and checking assistance for each fuel injections circuit as the shop manual instructions. Resistance values are equal on all crutches and within expected parameters. Before reconnecting the plug I put in a new 20A dude in #33 (manual says 15 but have blown up to 30A fuse). With PGM-FI resister unplugged #33 still blows.
after inserting another 20A in #33 and reconnecting all plugs I unplugged the ELD at the fuse box. Don't know why, just getting desperately. Unfortunately I have voltage there even if it seems to me a little low(11.54V).
Thru out this night made the ECU kicks out 1 error thru flash code 1-8. 18. The shop manual says it doesn't exist and therefore the ECU is no good. I purchased another ECU of of EBAY. Same year, same EX model, same 2.2L VTEC. I plugged in the new ECY, hook up the battery and jump the data port for flash code errors. 1-8. WTF??
Does error code 18 exist or not? I have my own theory but haven't been able to prove/did prove it yet I'm not in front of my manual so what im about to say maybe be incorrect. By I believe error code 17 references to the transmission. 18 doesn't exist. 19 is the A/T shift lock/solenoid. Is it possible that code 18 references to the couch sensor on my M/T ? And that 3 different companies shop manual publications over looked it ?
I'm stuck. Don't know what to do and have no lost my job due to lack of transportation. I need more help.

 

And yes they alternator lead runs straight off of the fuse box. The 2nd lead from the battery goes to the starter.

 

A code 18 doesn't exist. When you get a 2 digit code, the first digit is a long blink then the second digit blinks fast and happens almost immediately after the first digit. So long, short, short is a code 12. If you have a short then a few second pause and 8 short blinks, then you have a code 1 and a code 10.

Unplug the main fuel relay with a new #33 fuse (15A). Only use a 15A fuse, because you can cause more wiring damage using a larger fuse). Try starting the car and see if the fuse blows.

Was the #33 fuse blowing before you replaced the starter?

 

I had only had the car a few days before the starter went out. No #33 fuse was not blowing before the new starter was put in
IOut of fuses so have to walk to nearest auto party store. Then i will go pull the fuel pump relay and report bsck if the fuse still blows

 

If you get a few fuses try this second test. Disconnect the small blk/wht (or black, can't remember) wire to the starter. Try starting the car and see if the fuse blows.