1998 Accord V6
#1
1998 Accord V6
Hi,
Purchased a 1998 Accord for my son drove it home no issues. Well now it cranks with a boost but as soon as I take the cables off it sputters out and dies. I've purchased a new battery, taken the alternator off and had it tested( tested good), replaced the positive battery post. I did see a post where a Acura guy had a bad harmonic balancer that spun freely, do the accords have issues with the harmonic balancers?
Purchased a 1998 Accord for my son drove it home no issues. Well now it cranks with a boost but as soon as I take the cables off it sputters out and dies. I've purchased a new battery, taken the alternator off and had it tested( tested good), replaced the positive battery post. I did see a post where a Acura guy had a bad harmonic balancer that spun freely, do the accords have issues with the harmonic balancers?
#2
Hi,
Purchased a 1998 Accord for my son drove it home no issues. Well now it cranks with a boost but as soon as I take the cables off it sputters out and dies. I've purchased a new battery, taken the alternator off and had it tested( tested good), replaced the positive battery post. I did see a post where a Acura guy had a bad harmonic balancer that spun freely, do the accords have issues with the harmonic balancers?
Purchased a 1998 Accord for my son drove it home no issues. Well now it cranks with a boost but as soon as I take the cables off it sputters out and dies. I've purchased a new battery, taken the alternator off and had it tested( tested good), replaced the positive battery post. I did see a post where a Acura guy had a bad harmonic balancer that spun freely, do the accords have issues with the harmonic balancers?
#4
With the jumper cables off and the engine not running, do any of the electricals or lights work? If not then the battery is probably unable to generate enough of a field to start the alternator.
That said, the aforementioned field should have been generated from the jumper cables and should have allowed the engine to keep running once they were disconnected. I'm thinking the alternator is not working (yes, I know you said you had it tested, but I'm not buying they told you the truth).
That said, the aforementioned field should have been generated from the jumper cables and should have allowed the engine to keep running once they were disconnected. I'm thinking the alternator is not working (yes, I know you said you had it tested, but I'm not buying they told you the truth).
#6
Edit; RockAuto shows "new" alternators from a variety of manufacturers ranging from $81 to $116, and "remanufactured" alternators ranging from $118 to $139. Personally I'd opt for the remanufactured Denso unit for $133 as Denso is the OEM maker of the alternator which came in your car when it was new.
Last edited by shipo; 02-02-2019 at 08:20 AM.
#10
Double check ALL ground connections under the hood.