Potential purchase- good deal?
 

Greetings all, newb here and currently own a less than exciting 89 Honda Accord. She's a good little car, but not a great little car and I'm looking to upgrade. I have my eyes on a 1999 Accord right now, 184k miles, new non-studded all-season tires (very nice tires...) and it's mostly straight and clean. The paint has some issues (not a big deal since I know a good body man), the big concern is that it has a CEL and a stumble at 4k rpm, which my research tells me should be an easy fix by cleaning the VTEC solenoid and/or calibrating the TPS. Not too worried about that, I've been doing my own mechanical work since I bought my first truck at 16 years old. The car is at a dealer and the price I've negotiated is $2700 out the door. I think it sounds like a fair deal, the wife isn't so convinced :rolleyes: So what do you folks think... good deal or do I have to suck it up and tell my wife she's right? :eek:
On edit- I don't have a code reader and the dealer has not pulled the codes so I don't know what they are, I just did some research online and the 4k rpm stumble seems to be a common issue with the VTEC solenoid. The dealer also does not WANT to pull the codes, they just want to sell the car and be done.

I wouldn't buy a car with an unknown cel. Also is it a v6 or 4cyl? Auto or manual?

Sorry about that, I4 ULEV and auto. I drove the car and it doesn't do anything unusual or goofy until you try to accelerate to highway speed, then it cuts out at 4k rpm. If you back off the throttle it will shift and still accelerate. It doesn't scare me enough to walk away from it after doing some research. Fluids clean and full, engine bay looks well kept, no leaks that I could see.

Makes me worried when a car with known transmission issues doesn't shift as it should. Take it for a test drive to autozone and get the code read?

I think you misunderstood, the issue doesn't seem to be with the transmission at all. It shifts fine, no slamming into gear, no wild revving, no long sloppy shift, the motor just cuts out at 4k rpm. It sounds like hitting a rev limiter... rapid up and down change in RPM until you back off the throttle. From what I have read this is most likely because of a plugged screen in the VTEC solenoid or low oil level not allowing the VTEC to engage, so the car goes into limp mode and limits RPM to keep itself from self destructing. I must have read 30 different posts on several different forums with the same symptoms as what I'm describing. Trans fluid was full and clean when I test drove the car.

Let me try this a different way. Pretty much what "Rice" was saying - just a little bit different.

Test drive the car to autozone and get the codes.

So you are looking to buy a car with "some engine issue" that is unknown without the code. You are only guessing at this point - could be a crank sensor and now you are looking at something close to a timing belt job. Also this generation Accord with an auto trans - that is a ticking time bomb unless you can prove the trans has been rebuilt with the proper upgrades - nobody's word, I'd want documents.

I'm with your wife, sorry. I'd put a few hundred in the 3rd gen and keep looking. I'd call the 3rd gen a better choice........but then again I'm a big fan of the 3rd gens :)

All noted, the trouble is the closest AutoZone is... 40 miles? I guess I could just go buy the code reader and do it that way.

I think the code readers, the low cost ones are about $69.00 now..find a shop that's close or another parts store that's close and let them read your car codes for free...they will..That's how they get their business these days. :)

WheelBrokerAng

Got the codes, P1257 which is the common VTEC code as suspected and P1456, which is a code for EVAP system leak detected. Not too sure what to make of that one...

Regardless the car is now in my driveway and I will be doing further diagnosis/repair. Shouldn't take much.

The 1456 is better than the 1457........the 1456 could be as simple as the gas cap.

Pic's of the new ride :)