2000 Accord
 

I realize this is an old thread but I'll put my 2 cents and also ask the question on shock/strut replacement.

First, I would not bother renting a spring compressor. If you have access to an auto machine shop (some NAPA stores have them), just bring the entire strut assembly to them and have them replace the old shocks with your new shocks. Last time I did this they charged me $15 each. I think its a cheap price to pay for the very difficult work involved in DIYing it yourself.

Been there, done that.

Next, can someone who has done strut replacement work on a 2000 or similar Accord put down the general steps for this? Does the wheel need to come off the bearing hub? etc, etc?

Funny you ask, i have the struts to my 2001 EX sedan out right now.

Getting them out should be fairly easy if you have the tools and space.

Tools i used:
Floor jack
Jack stands
Air compressor with impact wrench and metric impact sockets 10mm - 19mm
Crescent wrench
Vice grips
3/8" socket and ratchet set (metric)
combination wrench set (metric)
ball peen hammer and rubber mallet.

Note: if you don't have an impact tool, using a socket set and a rubber mallet to strike the end of the ratchet can work well. i do this when an impact tool won't fit.

The Haynes manual describes the steps but does gloss over one key step (link bolt)

image 1:
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/i...20/1364064.png

image 2:
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/i...20/1364065.png

you will want air tools for this, impact tools are required to remove these lower bolts.

1. jack up car, support on stands, remove tire.
2. remove lower fork bolt (Image 1: 24 and 26)- 17mm
3. remove upper fork bolt (Image 1: 22) - 14mm at this point you can tap (down) on the fork to remove it from the damper, but it won't come all the way off yet...
4. this is the tricky one - remove the lower link bolt (Image 1: 4/5, 21). the bolt on the link has a #5 Metric hex key end with a 14mm bolt. the bolt will spin freely. you have to use a vice grip on a 14mm socket and insert the hex key through the socket opening. hold the hex key still while you loosen the bolt. be patient.
Note: the reason you have to remove the link is so you can actually get the lower fork down past the end of the damper. use a jack to support the whole assembly as you lower the hub assembly.
5. now you can remove the top 5 bolts holding the damper assembly in place - (3) 14mm and (2) 12mm. work strut out, you will need to raise the hub assembly to clear space.

6. most stores will rent you a spring compressor ($50) then you get a full refund upon returning it. mine required a 19mm impact to fully tighten.

7. mark the position of the spring base (Image 2: #7) relative to the spring so you can properly align the base with the damper/fork. install and compress the spring. you want to grab as many coils as possible. once the spring is compressed and no longer putting pressure on the strut assembly, you can remove the top damper bolt. to do this, you need to clamp the top of the damper with vice grips or a crescent wrench while you loosen the 14mm bolt with a box end wrench.

8. on my struts, (Image 2) the #6 rubber are bad, and the #12 bump stop is bad. I ordered them from hondapartsdeals for $2 ea. and $7 ea, respectively. I replaced my dampers with KYB last year. We did not replace the bump stop (should have) and we installed the rubbers backwards (because they seemed to fit better that way). the rubbers started to shear from the washers. I had a rattling sound in the front struts.

follow the exploded diagram for part re-assembly after you get new dampers.

installation is opposite of removal.

i can also take actual pics.

I took some photos of the process.

remove the two 10mm brake line bolts
Attachment 17974

remove the 17mm lower fork bolt
Attachment 17975

Attachment 17976

loosen the 14mm upper fork bolt. tap fork off bottom of strut
Attachment 17977

option 1: (hard) disconnect link to lower arm
Attachment 17978

Attachment 17979

Attachment 17980

option 2 (easy) remove two 14mm bolts for sway bar (allows control arm to drop)
Attachment 17981

with the link or sway lowered the entire hub lowers enough to fully remove the fork from the strut/damper.

remove upper bolts (3) 14mm and (2) 12mm. remove strut
Attachment 17982

mark orientation of upper strut cap relative to spring (scratch a line on both)
compress spring (the additional clamp is used for reassembly only)
Attachment 17970

remove upper damper bolt by holding the flat end with a crescent wrench and loosen the 14mm bolt with a box end wrench
Attachment 17971

remove damper from strut assembly
Attachment 17972

replace parts and reassemble according to the diagram. the rubber bushings must be inserted with the larger end on the strut cap and the smaller end against the washer. a clamp can be used to further compress the cap so you can get the nut started.
Attachment 17970

replace by working backwards.

Typical front end CLUNK is the sway bar bushings that mount the sway bar to the frame, the bushing will look good and not make any noise when you test them. Once you remove them, you'll notice that the rubber is very hard, after replacing Cluck will be gone. Also, front struts can make a lot more noise than the sway bar. Sway bar bushings from autozone about $10 for the set. Cheap set of Complete struts with springs and hardware from parts geek are about $75 ea. I have them and they work fine.