So the alternator is the only component that could cause overcharging? Not to say it could not have harmed other components (batteries,ecu,etc).

 

Absolutely without a doubt it is your alternator and it is only going to get worse. The battery shop would not know about it or the ELD, but the fact that your alternator shop does not know what the problem is or what the ELD is makes me really question if you have a high amp at all, clearly the shop has no idea what they are doing. You have what is known as a flying short in the rotor, cheap low quality rotors do that. When it is cold the windings contract and that effects the resistance of the rotor coil, as it heats up it expands and things go back to normal. Eventually it will do it all the time and that can damage many things.

 

Thought I would pass on a couple updates update on the latest design. We have been working on this for the last few months and it really looks like there is no other option than building an interface computer module. Basically there must be a module that takes the bus info from the alternator and the ECU and modifies each to allow for a high amp alternator. That is going to be very expensive, so we are looking at other options such as dual alternators, that is a difficult project but it will be a fraction of the cost of a computer workaround.

For older vehicles we have developed and tested a bolt in, plug in 250 amp alternator kit that uses the factory belt. This alternator is not the Ford based unit, which is not designed to run in a counterclockwise direction and requires adaptor plugs. This is based on the Accord alternator, modified for CCW rotation and with a direct bolt in regulator plug.

 

Yes, only the alternator would cause the overcharging. If the alternator's was working properly, the internal voltage regulator should limit the maximum charging output.

 

Thank you RushPowerSystems, that is what I needed. A logical, confident explanation - and I know it is difficult without seeing the vehicle. I will pull out the alternator and send it back. I'm sure I will get the same quality parts, but for a $300 alternator... Maybe someday I can afford higher end parts.
My other option is to go back to stock, depending on how much it is to repair my broken alternator.

 

robertsjm711, not a problem, I am suspicious of that as well, it costs us over $300 to build a stock unit to 180 amps. I would bet that they don’t have the equipment to test for a flying short. If you would like you can send it in and we will inspect it, if it is all junk and we can’t save it, we have a used alternator 180 amp with heat the heat reducing coating that is a trade in. he only used it for about 6 months before changing to the new 250 amp. I can at least give you scrap value for your alternator if there is nothing else we can save. The most expensive part is the stator and chances are it can be saved, I am sure they just bought a pre-wound one. if you are interested send me an email Darren@rushps.com and I will make sure the one we have is not sold and send you the info on sending it in to us.

 

RushPowerSystems email sent.

 

Thank you for your input.

My expectation was to send in the stock alt in to have it upgraded. I've found a few from wrecked cars for a good price.

what is the output capability of the stock alternator in the 4cyl models?
what is the output capability of a rebuild of the stock alternator in the 4cyl models?

or would you steal the circuit board from the stock and use that in an upgraded model with a larger case?

 

No problem.

The limiting factor in any high amp alternator is heat, alternators generate heat as part of the function of generating power. The problem with stock Honda alternator is its size and design, there is not enough surface area in the alternator to dissipate heat and the stator stack is too small to get enough wire into it. the stock Honda alternator can’t handle anything over 180 amps, but it runs hot when it does and it is very close to the exhaust so that does not help.

I should mention that most companies rate the alternator cold, when they heat up it can drop as much as 25% depending on the quality of the components. when it heats up it expands and the gap between the rotor and the stator changes and that effects the power output. We have developed a heat reducing coating that will drop the operating temp of the alternator by at least 30 degrees and that helps power output. Our alternators are rated hot, when cold they can hit over 200 amps.

Here is a tip for you that compete, keep the engine off as long as possible, push the vehicle if you need to, and pack the alternator with sealed bags of dry ice before you compete, the lower the temp of the alternator (to a point) the more power it will make.
It is always better to use an OEM alternator, but avoid rebuilt ones. It’s the rotor and stator that is important. The rebuilt units may have had the rotor and stator replaced with cheap aftermarket parts and the metal quality is not as good as the OEM ones. The fact is there is too much reclaim metal in the components nowadays, if we the metal quality today was the same as it were in the 60s and 70s we would be able to produce 25% to 40 % more power due to increased magnetism in the rotor.

One of the limitations in the stock regulator is that there is too many safety features, we remove many of them that affects alternator output. The regulator really is not the issue, they are rather durable, it all comes down to the rotor and stator, that is where power is made or lost. The stock Honda alternator is about 115mm, it’s not large enough to make and dissipate anything over 180 amps, sadly that does not stop some shops from lying about it. The alternator we use for the 250 amps is about 130mm and that extra 15mm makes all the difference in power handling.

 

I'm in desperate need of help with this eld bypass. I understand this is on accord forum but I have a 2009 honda crv and has the same engine as all the other cars including the accords. I tried getting more info and it always redirects me to here. I located the eld plug and and did the bypass according to specs and color. Everytime I turn the switch on for the bypass my voltage goes from 12.4sh to 14.3sh works wonderful has but that is not the problem. Everything I activate the switch my 4 ch amp turns off for some reason while my bass amp stays on. It's been weeks I been looking for a solution and I'm getting no were. Can anyone help with this problem?