Okay maybe I am confused... I check the wires and when I say closed I mean no electricity will pass thru...Am I bass ackwards??? I checked the sensor again and no electricity would pass thru the wires to ground.

 

Okay I think i'm wrong.. When I say closed I mean no electricity will pass to ground. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for all your help!

 

I think that you had the terms confused. An open circuit would be like testing a wire from end to end that is not connected in the middle. Closed would mean that the wires are touching in the middle.

Hopefully you are not using a 12V test probe to test the circuit and using the volt meter.

Since it sounds like the wiring is ok, then I would get the NM sensor, since that is the only code you are getting. I would check out car-part.com to see if there are any wrecked accords matching yours in the area. I don't think that sensor would be listed on the site, but I am not sure.

I am a fan of junk yard parts, because they are cheaper, and I use them for items that are rarer to fail. I always ask if I can return the part if it does not work, because I don't like throwing parts (aka money) at my car.

 

Yeah I am using a volt meter. I was just confused. Would the nm sensor make it not shift into gear in the morning when it is dead cold? I was trying to convince myself that the shift solenoids were week.
Have you ever heard of such a thing? Thanks for all your help. I won't be working on it much for the next 2 weeks, im going to Florida.

 

I think that strange shifting problems can result if the NM sensor is putting out an incorrect signal.

You are getting a transmission code for that sensor/circuit, so something is out of range. You verified the wiring between the TCU and NM sensor is intact and not grounded.

The only two sources left are either the NM sensor or the TCU. The TCU is giving you the code, so I would assume that the sensor is bad and not the TCU itself. Anything is possible though.

I think that NM sensor is called the mainshaft speed sensor atleast on the 5th gen accords.

 

I'm gonna put the fuse back in and see if I still get the code 15. Do I have to drive it to trigger the code if it is still there or will it appear without moving? What if the code is gone? Thanks again talk to you in a few weeks!

 

My guess would be that you should get the code with the engine idling. You can try starting it for a bit, turn off the car, check for code(s). If no code, try driving it, and see if the code returns when shifting problems start happening.

 

Ok. so I put the fuse back in and started it up and let it idle for a few. The S light is on only when it is in D4. I shut it off and tried to pull a code and got nothing! There is another guy on here and it sounds like he is having the same problem. Won't shift when it is cold. WHAT IS GOING ON????? It acts just like the shift solenoids are to week to engage and to week to hold the gear or change the gear engage when they are really cold. Very confused. What are some other things that I can check. I just don't want to throw parts at it.
Thanks

 

Just to make life simpler, would you put your car's info in your signature, so we don't have to go to the first post to see what you are driving? It makes things easier.

That sport shift light staying on is strange. Earlier on, I posted a test to see if the switch is stuck closed. Did you ever do the test on the switch by removing the center console? You could leave it unplugged to see if the sport shift light stays on.

You can try driving the car around the block to see if the error codes comes back?

 

Ok I think I got the car info in my signature.

Yes I tested the switch and it is good. The light does stay on when unplugged, only in D4 it goes out once in D3 but I can't turn it on in D3 either. Did you see the other post that I think has the same shifting problem as me???

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=30761

I am trying to contact him and see if he found the problem, it sounds like a similar problem. Is there a way to test the TCU without opening it up? It has a year warranty on it but It has stickers on it and if I open it up the warranty is void. Is there some pins that I could check resistance on to see if the cap or resister are ok. I so want to open this up just to look.

What about the cold issue????

Thanks