2003 Accord power window problem
#1
2003 Accord power window problem
We have a 2003 EX Accord 4dr 5 speed 2.4
Some time ago the drivers front window stopped working and later the passenger front window stopped working. Both windows are now up.
When I try the drivers window and when I try the passenger window from the passenger door I hear no sound. But when I try the passenger window from the drivers door I hear a faint click in the passenger door. All fuses are good and both back windows work.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting help I can get and I would like to know how to jump the terminals to determine if the motors are working.
Some time ago the drivers front window stopped working and later the passenger front window stopped working. Both windows are now up.
When I try the drivers window and when I try the passenger window from the passenger door I hear no sound. But when I try the passenger window from the drivers door I hear a faint click in the passenger door. All fuses are good and both back windows work.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting help I can get and I would like to know how to jump the terminals to determine if the motors are working.
#3
Thanks for the diagram and the great trouble shooting chart.
I see on the diagram there is a step 4 and there is a step 7 at the top of the troubleshooting chart. Are there steps 1-3 and 5-6 that I should follow?
As soon as I can get the car back over here I will see what I can find out.
I see on the diagram there is a step 4 and there is a step 7 at the top of the troubleshooting chart. Are there steps 1-3 and 5-6 that I should follow?
As soon as I can get the car back over here I will see what I can find out.
#4
Steps 1-3....#1, you don't have the Honda HDS unit so no need. #2, decide if it is a 2 or 4 door and how to remove the switch from the door. #3, disconnect the wires.
Here is #5 and #6. More tests on wires.....
Here is #5 and #6. More tests on wires.....
#5
Thanks for all the help so far. Excellent test procedure.
I finally got a chance to do the tests. It appears the drivers front motor is bad so will need to replace it.
Testing indicates either the front passenger side motor is bad or the passenger side switch is bad. It also could be a bad wire. Hopefully that is not a bad wire as that could be hard to find.
How can we test the passenger side switch to see if it is bad?
Also there appears to be 6 terminals on the motor. How can we put 12V to the motor to be sure it is bad before replacing it?
The car is not here now but if it helps I do remember hearing a click at the passenger front door when trying to lower the window.
I finally got a chance to do the tests. It appears the drivers front motor is bad so will need to replace it.
Testing indicates either the front passenger side motor is bad or the passenger side switch is bad. It also could be a bad wire. Hopefully that is not a bad wire as that could be hard to find.
How can we test the passenger side switch to see if it is bad?
Also there appears to be 6 terminals on the motor. How can we put 12V to the motor to be sure it is bad before replacing it?
The car is not here now but if it helps I do remember hearing a click at the passenger front door when trying to lower the window.
Last edited by Terry s; 06-21-2013 at 01:20 PM. Reason: omission
#7
I replaced the driver side front motor & regulator and it work fine. The auto up and auto down even worked so did not have to do the re-set procedure.
The window was up and I could not get to the 2 bolts holding the window to the regulator. So I cut the cables. Be sure to have the window taped or someone holding it so it does not drop. I cut the lower cable with wire cutters but could not get then to work on the upper cable due to limited space. I cut through the upper cable with a cut off disc on my dremel tool extension cable.
The motor with regulator was cheaper than the motor only??
Thanks for the test procedure on the passenger side. As soon as I get the car back I will give it a try.
The window was up and I could not get to the 2 bolts holding the window to the regulator. So I cut the cables. Be sure to have the window taped or someone holding it so it does not drop. I cut the lower cable with wire cutters but could not get then to work on the upper cable due to limited space. I cut through the upper cable with a cut off disc on my dremel tool extension cable.
The motor with regulator was cheaper than the motor only??
Thanks for the test procedure on the passenger side. As soon as I get the car back I will give it a try.
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