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  #1  
Old 08-27-2012, 08:38 PM
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Default Burning coolant now.

So my F23 intake manifold swap sucked hard. Vacuum issues and it rained on me and when I finally got it, my car started burning coolant. The surfaces are all clean. Do I have to drive the car for a while to let the gasket seal?

At one point it was burning coolant with an improper seal but I got a different gasket. Does it take a long time for the coolant to get out of the system?
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:00 AM
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"...and when I finally got it, my car started burning coolant. The surfaces are all clean.
Do I have to drive the car for a while to let the gasket seal?"


Never heard of a gasket sealing itself given enough time; let us know.

Also, what is it?
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2012, 08:51 AM
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Well thats annoying then. Im gonna have to take it to a mechanic.
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  #4  
Old 08-28-2012, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonRicer View Post
So my F23 intake manifold swap sucked hard. Vacuum issues and it rained on me and when I finally got it, my car started burning coolant. The surfaces are all clean. Do I have to drive the car for a while to let the gasket seal?

At one point it was burning coolant with an improper seal but I got a different gasket. Does it take a long time for the coolant to get out of the system?
As with most of my replies I like to state at the beginning that I dont really know much about a part if I dont, so that being said, in this case I do not have a ton of experience with F23 Intake Manifolds.

In my experience I have never seen an intake manifold that crossed the cooling channels of a motor. Doesnt mean it doesnt happen, just that I havent seen it.

If you are burning coolant it is usually a head gasket, cracked head or block. Coolant burning should not be caused by replacing an Intake Manifold.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:49 AM
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Yeah, I'm wondering if its a cracked head or blown head gasket. However, there aren't any symptoms of that. But maybe the head gasket could have broken in the process.

What happened was a leak in the manifold and it was obvious with that leak that the coolant was leaking into one of the intakes through the gasket. So I finally had everything tightened, but maybe a head gasket could've blown in that violent process.

Although an existing issue suggested something going on with the engine anyways. Like a vacuum leak. Which is partly why I did this mod- to get rid of the issue by replacing everything.

The only symptom though was white smoke. There were no leaks under my car this morning, last night, although there was white smoke, the engine went up to 200 like it always does and stayed there. There is a whistling noise that I know is some kinda leak somewhere. It was happening occasionally before this but I can hear it now.

But remember its an F22 and I don't usually stress the engine. I shouldn't have an issue with the engine like that. They're good engines.

Well I guess most guys either crash their first car or destroy it trying to modify it. Thats an unspoken love there...

If I need a new engine head, should I do an f22a? That was suggested cuz its stronger I think but that was with an H22 intake manifold. Idk if the F22B/F23 intake pattern would work. It should right?
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Last edited by RobinsonRicer; 08-28-2012 at 10:55 AM.
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  #6  
Old 08-28-2012, 12:31 PM
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Im so lost as to what you are doing or what is going on here. You start off saying you have an f23 then say its an f22.... then talking about f22a or h22 intake manifold ect ect. If I understand correctly you have an f23 intake mani on an f22?

What is you goal with all of this? And if I remember correctly the H22 is spaced like this 0-00-0 not 0-0-0-0. Intake manifolds are one of those items that I rarely ever want to remove from the engine because they can quickly turn into a giant PITA.

There is coolant routed to your throttle air bypass that is on the back of the manifold. This allows more air in when the engine is at idle and there is a load put on it (headlights or AC). The coolant is routed to this too keep it from freezing up. It might be the source of the problem, if it was a cheap part.

If not then do a compression test.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:49 PM
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Thats interesting. I was wondering about the location where the IAC has coolant pumped through it. I had to cut the nipples and then hold them with hose clamps cuz of the TPS. But coolant wouldn't be getting into the engine at the IAC like that.

The only thing I am thinking is that since where the coolant runs through the head close to a passage that its crossing over at the gasket. Could be a result of the stupid stock paper gasket used. I got it all off but there may be something here and there thats causing an issue. Anyhow its at the mechanic now cuz I need my car working and am too tired to go back in there. But when I started it up this morning there was no coolant in the exhaust. Yet all yesterday there was. Could it just have been that the car needs to heat up and then the problem starts? It couldnt fix itself over night after cooling down right?

What I'm doing is an f23 manifold swap on an f22b1 for more hp. Another suggestion was an f22a head on the f22b1 block so that an H22 intake manifold would fit without coolant leak issues. But in the case where I have a cracked head, if I were to replace the head I could do an f22a head with stronger bolts and am wondering if I could still fit the f23 manifold on there as to not have that go to waste. But I'm thinking not if the purpose of an f22a head in this case is to fit an h22 intake manifold on. Itd be more than just swapping the head though right? Id need a different ECU cuz its non VTEC- which I kinda wanna keep the VTEC

Heres the suggestion:
F22B1 Potential Continued
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Last edited by RobinsonRicer; 08-28-2012 at 02:40 PM.
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  #8  
Old 08-28-2012, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonRicer View Post
I was wondering about the location where the IAC has coolant pumped through it. I had to cut the nipples and then hold them with hose clamps cuz of the TPS. But coolant wouldn't be getting into the engine at the IAC like that.
Sounds like you did it exactly right but just to double check, the IACV was installed with the coolant lines right next to the TPS:

Click the image to open in full size.

...not this way:

Click the image to open in full size.

Upside down - the second pic - would pump coolant into the throttle body, intake manifold, and cylinders.

Which IACV adapter did you use?
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  #9  
Old 08-28-2012, 03:18 PM
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Yeah. I actually used the instructions from the write up that came from. So I flipped it and cut the nipples back. Its a bit of a squeeze but it was enough to allow the coolant to run though. There were no leaks under my car this morning so I figured that everything had held together. It was just the sweet, white smoke that would not go away all last night. But there was none this morning. the car warmed up a little but it was a short drive to the mechanic. If coolant was crossing into the engine through that connection would it happen immediately or would the car have to warm up first? Thats the only spot I could imagine coolant would get in without any cracks in the head.

The adapter was from rosko racing.
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  #10  
Old 08-28-2012, 04:50 PM
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how many miles were on the F22 prior to this addition? Have you ever done a compression test?
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:50 PM
 
 
 
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03, 24l, 97, accord, antifreeze, burning, compression, cylinder, engine, f22, f23, gasket, head, honda, intake, manifold, remove, test


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