I had to replace the lower ball joint on my daughter's 2.2CL due to a mistake (did not leave nut in place on stud) I made w/ the ball joint separator. Buggered threads prevented castellated nut from advancing, and could not hold stud to run die over threads.
So how to remove/install the lower ball joint?
My plan was to remove the knuckle and take to a local machine shop for help. They were too busy to do on Friday, so I decided to try myself before leaving w/ them on Monday if I couldn't do any good.
I remembered a comment by Chiovnidca
to simply hammer it out and removed the boot to examine. There is a circular ring beneath the ball joint that provides a good driving surface. I found a 1" air impact socket fit this surface nicely while passing over the stud. I hit 3-4 hard licks w/ my 3-lb hammer and ball joint was released.
I thought I might install the same way since top of ball joint is designed for pressing in place. However, the knuckle shape prevents delivering a direct blow to the top of a driver resting on the ball joint.
I rented the ball joint press tool from local O'Riellys and rigged the fixed end on top of the ball joint started in the knuckle and pushing a large (2-3/8") socket over the lower drive bolt end of the ball joint press and against lower knuckle. I snugged the press to hold things in place anchored the knuckle in a vise to allow me to turn the press C-clamp bolt w/ a breaker bar. W/o a vise to restrain the knuckle, I don't think this is possible due to high torques to turn the press. Even w/ a fully lubed ball joint and knuckle receiver, it took 100-150 ft-lbs of torque to turn the ball joint press and install the ball joint. I did not try the steel tube receivers in the ball joint press since I had this large socket, but they may well have worked also.
I think Chiovnidca
method works well for diy of local ball joints. I don't know if he did same thing I did or not, but this procedure is dead easy to remove the ball joint.