2014 Accord Sport Audio Install
 

first build for me in 10+ years, so i am basially starting with no knowledge.

das auto:
http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...1&d=1390532079

planned:
KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise
ultratouch thermal barrier
2- alpine type s componets 6.5"
2- alpine type s coaxials 6.5" (rear deck)
Precision Power PPI 900.5
Image Dynamics ID12D4
Navone Engineering LOC

i am looking mostly for sound quality, but still dont want to spend an arm and a leg.


starting to roll in https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ine=1393687667 may be able to install sunday as right now its 4 degrees outside https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ine=1393687667 will try to update asap.
http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...0&d=1390532040




my first mod. just got the oem tweeter panels from the expensive model accords and filed them down to accept the alpine tweets in their own enclosure. loved how they swiveled in their mount, so i kept it!!!!

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...9&d=1390615058

almost cried this was so pretty

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...3&d=1391209380http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...4&d=1391209390



thought this was badass

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...5&d=1391209436



ummm, tasty new stuff!

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...7&d=1391123011http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...8&d=1391123019



and my babys, strip 12awg perfectly https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ine=1393688097

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...9&d=1391123460

now onto the "fun" part ;)

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...6&d=1393025664

now i just need to see how ultra touch will do in there. cant roll down my windows as i just got them tinted so may wait till next week.

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...8&d=1393113372http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...9&d=1393113392http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...0&d=1393113413http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...1&d=1393113432http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...2&d=1393113450
http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...3&d=1393113529









will try to get more done when it warms up. I just have a driveway to work on, and 40 degrees outside still sucks :mad:

thanks for sharing.

can you describe how you mounted the front speakers and if you measured the available depth? did you make a mount? did you reuse factory?

i recommend weatherstripping foam seals around the front of the speaker so it seals against the front door panel. door panel/grill needs to have an airtight seal to the speaker so you get midbass response and minimal phase cancellation.

the facotry mounts were basically made into the OEM speakers, so that was a no for me. i just used some scochse honda factory mounts that you can buy. also these mounts i think are like their own baffle. they're plastic but do add another inch to mount depth.

did not measure, just assumed they would fit :o

ya i prolly oughta do that, just have a little deadener around the opening atm.

im still far from done, it is starting to warm up here so hopefully ill get "done" soon


man you caught me off guard changing you avatar :p

little update.

got power wire ran!

well, its not hot, i did the hard part!


anyway on to pics.

comin into trunk

http://imageshack.com/a/img844/1521/gohg.jpg


lovin the techflex

http://imageshack.com/a/img22/9291/34fv.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img208/8676/9ibk.jpg


drilled thro firewall and used a grommet. it is right above the dead pedal inside, well out of the way.

http://imageshack.com/a/img834/9940/g5to.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img69/2512/va8p.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img802/8833/o0rc.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img542/8978/q4sk.jpg

got more done with help from pops.

LOC is hooked up, save the remote wire. that was my main objective today. also the power wire is now hot!



http://imageshack.com/a/img542/1718/ilza.jpg


http://imageshack.com/a/img59/1494/kvuj.jpg


labeled **** so i dont get confused :D


http://imageshack.com/a/img541/9990/cqxn.jpg



temco hammer crimper, love it. btw, when crimping, have a little of the wire sticking out the ring end as to get a good bite on the wire. learned from trial and error :confused:


http://imageshack.com/a/img855/9459/8tkp.jpg




Wire's HOT YO!


http://imageshack.com/a/img59/3922/rl1d.jpg






also factory, ive got a 4awg battery ground so im not gonna mess with it right now. 1/0 is way overkill for my power needs now.

sub "pre" hooked up

http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/at...1&d=1394587907

glad you're happy with your efforts.

looks good. you can spend some more time with wire routing to try to get most of it secured every 6-8" or so. you can use zip tie mounts.

make sure you get some L-brackets in there to rigidly secure the box in place. while it may seem secure with friction, you want it difficult to steal and secured such that fast turns or an accident doesn't cause the box to move and stress the connections at the amp.

ya my cable management is a little better but i didnt take pics of that. i just wanted to get done at that point. now its 30 outside again, try to get more pics soon.

ya i should do the brackets. ill have to plan it though, dont really want to drill into the floor/cargo mat.

anything else help? i was thinking of putting on some rubber feet. my cargo mat is rubber, so i thought the rubber on rubber friction plus the weight would be sufficient?

Did you do anything about the ANC module?

I'm in the middle of installing the same P900.5 amp, but was planning on using a LOC by splicing into the rear speaker wire for signal.

I was working around the console/dash area yesterday and decided to go ahead and unplug the ANC module, and it appears my bluetooth HFL doesn't work anymore. This is contrary to just about everything I've read online, and I'm really opposed to cutting mic wires.

Most of what I've read makes me think that the ANC really hurts the performance once an amp is brought into the equation (e.g. random booms upon startup)

use L brackets on top of the box and secure to the upper frame opening.

my anc is unplugged.

what year and model is yours? 2013s, the hfl sits below the anc under the radio. 2014s dont have an hfl unit below it.

did you unplug a mic? if so that is also the mic for bluetooth, i found that out from experience.

also i would put the LOC preamp if u have honda premium sound.

Mine is a 2014

I didn't unplug a mic.

I did some additional tests and it appears that people can hear me, but I cannot hear them.

Do HFL calls come through all 4 speakers? My front speakers aren't currently hooked up (hope to finish wiring today), and I was planning on tapping into the rear speaker wires with an LOC to get the signal to the components.

since u cant hear them, i would assume no fronts hooked up is your problem. it would make sense that it only comes thro the front speakers only imo, but i dont have any proof.

front speaker outputs should provide voices. connecting the LOC to those should resolve your issue. Rears are certainly easier to access.

looks like I may pick up a 2014 Accord EX-L soon. I have an idea to install an aftermarket head unit with the front outputs through a LOC into the head unit AUX. I want the option for a pure signal source for competition purposes as well as a good preamp.

JL Audio and Audio Control make summing devices that can take the signal from every speaker output from a factory amp and combine them into one full-range 2-channel output.

JL Audio CL-SSI Signal summing interface for CL441dsp CleanSweep™ at Crutchfield.com

AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield.com

i was told at the time i looked, noone makes an aftermarket harness yet that works with our hondas. so you lose your backup camera and all that jazz. what i was told though

I believe he is talking about adding a headunit and leaving the factory head unit in tact as well.

exactly. the factory head unit for an EX-L is pretty nice and incorporates a lot of vehicle information and features. it stays.

http://image.automotive.com/f/honda-...rs-sidejpg.jpg

similar to installing a LOC to feed a signal to an amp, you can install a LOC to feed a signal to a headunit. You just need to be careful of volume settings for the factory and aftermarket head units to prevent clipping. Basically, figure out the maximum signal from the factory head unit that has no distortion and never exceed it.

the real purpose though is to allow you to have a good CD player as a source for competition purposes. That bypasses all filters in the factory system.

i haven't even started looking for a place for another head unit... hopefully below the A/C controls and hopefully behind the factory cover.

it may require relocating the factory unit separate from the faceplate - essentially creating a remote display. that way i don't have to deal with the entire head unit inside the dash.

ahhh

ya below ac would be perfect i think. that cubby comes out with 2 screws and when it is out, you have access around glove box area to run cables.

how much depth did you have for front speakers? did you have to trim the foam baffles? did you measure actual available depth?

The 2014 Accord Sport, LX, and EX trim levels no longer have the Handsfree Control Unit (Bluetooth) hardware module. The 2014 Accord EX-L and Touring still has the Handsfree Control Unit (Bluetooth) hardware module.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...oth-module-jpg

didnt measure, just put them in there. alpine sps610c if u want to get dimension. also have 1/4 inch foam baffle on them.

yea, i looked up their depth as 2-1/4". mine are 3" deep. do you still have the stock speakers? can you measure the total depth of the factory speakers?

oems are 2-1/8

im sure you know but just a reminder. exl's have 6 speakers and factory sub, 8" i think. and a factory amp. think it stays around glove box area.

yes.

OEM depth concerns me.

after much deliberation an EX-L is out of the picture. I will avoid the CVT. The 6MT only comes in LX, Sport, or EX.

ive heard nothing but good things from hondas cvt. and my sport has it and have had nothing but smooth rides.

6mt comes in exl in the v6 doesnt it?

a 6MT is only available with the V6 in the Coupe.

I drove the CVT yesterday and liked it. I noticed typical automatic tranny delays when rapidly changing speeds (like rapid acceleration) but the lack of shift points is neat. I spoke with the service techs and they agreed that the 6MT is fantastic. Both require fluid changes every 30k mi.

hello, can you tell me how you found the firewall to pass the power wire to battery?
I have a 2017 sport. thank you

There are some grommets located at the foot well areas (should be at both driver and passenger sides).

See KHA's post #22 in this other thread for photo of his install:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...d-58960/page3/

2015 Honda Accord sport
 

So I recently got a 2015 Honda Accord sport and like everyone elts not impressed with the sound system . So I bought 4 6.5 inch kickers to replace the factory . My question is , is there a factory amp in this car or is it part of the HU? If there is a factory amp where is it and is there any way you could replace that with an aftermarket one so I could just amp my speakers ? Or is there any easy other ways that you can amp the speakers . Looking to keep the clean factory look but have great SQ . If anyone could help that would be great ! Thanks !

The sport HU has the amp built in. i've personally opened up those radios to bypass the factory amplifier IC and create RCA outputs. even with that, the internal DSP filter is active (high pass filter and eq is non-adjustable.). best bet for good sound is a bass restoration DSP (i.e. AudioControl LC2i) or a factory EQ compensation DSP (i.e. JL Cleansweep) with an external amp.

Okay so I just installed my kickers in the front , not sure why but it sounds worse than it did with the factory ones in it ! What can I do to correct this and get the sound I'm looking for out of these new speakers with out having to pull apart my dash ...?