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2014 Accord Sport Audio Install

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  #1  
Old 03-01-2014, 09:27 AM
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Default 2014 Accord Sport Audio Install

first build for me in 10+ years, so i am basially starting with no knowledge.

das auto:


planned:
KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise
ultratouch thermal barrier
2- alpine type s componets 6.5"
2- alpine type s coaxials 6.5" (rear deck)
Precision Power PPI 900.5
Image Dynamics ID12D4
Navone Engineering LOC

i am looking mostly for sound quality, but still dont want to spend an arm and a leg.


starting to roll in may be able to install sunday as right now its 4 degrees outside will try to update asap.





my first mod. just got the oem tweeter panels from the expensive model accords and filed them down to accept the alpine tweets in their own enclosure. loved how they swiveled in their mount, so i kept it!!!!

 
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Last edited by berrnard; 03-01-2014 at 09:35 AM.
  #2  
Old 03-01-2014, 09:34 AM
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almost cried this was so pretty





thought this was badass





ummm, tasty new stuff!





and my babys, strip 12awg perfectly



now onto the "fun" part



now i just need to see how ultra touch will do in there. cant roll down my windows as i just got them tinted so may wait till next week.












will try to get more done when it warms up. I just have a driveway to work on, and 40 degrees outside still sucks
 
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:01 PM
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thanks for sharing.

can you describe how you mounted the front speakers and if you measured the available depth? did you make a mount? did you reuse factory?

i recommend weatherstripping foam seals around the front of the speaker so it seals against the front door panel. door panel/grill needs to have an airtight seal to the speaker so you get midbass response and minimal phase cancellation.
 
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
thanks for sharing.

can you describe how you mounted the front speakers and if you measured the available depth? did you make a mount? did you reuse factory?

i recommend weatherstripping foam seals around the front of the speaker so it seals against the front door panel. door panel/grill needs to have an airtight seal to the speaker so you get midbass response and minimal phase cancellation.
the facotry mounts were basically made into the OEM speakers, so that was a no for me. i just used some scochse honda factory mounts that you can buy. also these mounts i think are like their own baffle. they're plastic but do add another inch to mount depth.

did not measure, just assumed they would fit

ya i prolly oughta do that, just have a little deadener around the opening atm.

im still far from done, it is starting to warm up here so hopefully ill get "done" soon


man you caught me off guard changing you avatar
 

Last edited by berrnard; 03-07-2014 at 06:24 AM.
  #5  
Old 03-08-2014, 05:55 PM
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little update.

got power wire ran!

well, its not hot, i did the hard part!


anyway on to pics.

comin into trunk




lovin the techflex






drilled thro firewall and used a grommet. it is right above the dead pedal inside, well out of the way.







 
  #6  
Old 03-09-2014, 05:27 PM
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got more done with help from pops.

LOC is hooked up, save the remote wire. that was my main objective today. also the power wire is now hot!









labeled **** so i dont get confused







temco hammer crimper, love it. btw, when crimping, have a little of the wire sticking out the ring end as to get a good bite on the wire. learned from trial and error








Wire's HOT YO!









also factory, ive got a 4awg battery ground so im not gonna mess with it right now. 1/0 is way overkill for my power needs now.
 
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:33 PM
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sub "pre" hooked up

 
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:21 PM
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getting closer to ludicrous speed!

 
  #9  
Old 03-15-2014, 09:03 AM
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IT IS DONE!!!...for now

love it, sounds so good.

taped up so they dont come loose















 
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:53 AM
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glad you're happy with your efforts.

looks good. you can spend some more time with wire routing to try to get most of it secured every 6-8" or so. you can use zip tie mounts.

make sure you get some L-brackets in there to rigidly secure the box in place. while it may seem secure with friction, you want it difficult to steal and secured such that fast turns or an accident doesn't cause the box to move and stress the connections at the amp.
 


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