I don't jam at 100% volume so I am just going with the big 3 upgrade for now. If I begin to have voltage issues then I will continue to add upgrades until the issue is resolved. Thanks for the help fellas.

Just need to find some quality wire

I have until the spring time anyway as the car is stored away for the winter.

 

That is an incorrect statement. A Boss 1,000 watt amp DOES not produce 1,000 watts RMS. A Sony Xplode 1,000 watt amp does not produce 1,000 watts RMS. I can go on and on with the list of over rated BS low quality amps. Your RF amps does do rated. Many of the lower end amps over rate their RMS ratings in order to sell them to uneducated buyers.

I was trying to help you and in return you act snotty with me? Why would you act that way?

 

LOL.. 250x1 @ 4 Ohm.... 500x1 @ 2 Ohm... 1000x1 @ 1 Ohm.. unless your speaker are rated for 1 Ohm, kiss em good bye.. most speakers are 4 Ohm.. some others are 2 Ohm... As for 1 Ohm good luck.. to hot, too wrappy, to snotty..

Basically that amp is Shotty.. it will work good for one 10 or 12 rated for a 250rms @ 4 Ohm if one Chanel.... If its a 2 Ohm sub.. it would work better with that amp @ 500 rms..

JL Audio.. where 1000, means 1000... that is all

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012Q..._d_detail?pd=1

Rockford 1000 specs

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X7...6462797&sr=8-1

R1000 is better... This is the link

It is stable at 2ohms for 1000watts...

 

That amp is actually 1000 rms at 2 ohm. Here are the actual specs of the amp:

Rockford Fosgate

crispin: Perhaps you are reading into the post too deep. I was not trying to be "snotty" with you. I was simply stating that I had already explained the wattage. Your prior post basically stated that no one could assist in my question unless they knew the brand of the amp. Either way, I appreciate your help and apologize if my post came across wrong. I truly did not mean it to

Danny: Not sure about your posts or the "LOL", seems your quick research was incorrect. Either way, I did my research before buying the amp. My intention is to power 2x Rockford P3s at 2 Ohm. The "test sheet certificate" that the amp came with I believe was 1057W RMS

 

you realize that the amp is dependent upon resistance right. if you have a 4 ohm sub and you hook it up to an amp that is 250 watts at 4 ohm and 1k at 1 ohm it does not hurt the speaker in any way. it simply means that it wont put out more than 250 watts to that speaker. now if you are running at 1 ohm and your amp isnt 1 ohm stable you can say good bye to the amp.

also the 1 ohm stability comes more into play when running multiple subs. namely 1 ohm dvc's and 4vohm dvc's, or for bridging amps to a 2 ohm load.

 

It was funny because it can do 1000 watts.. and the whole snotty thing.. people mean no harm here its thinking that they mean more than they do and calling them on it which is funny to me..

Neo.. yea I was mixed up.. amp has issues not the speakers... I was running 4 10s, in series, in my s10.. from a few different amps. Constantly had issues between amp getting fried, or subs popping... I settled with 2 Sony xplod 1000... 2 channels each, one for each sub at 4 Ohm and it lasted me many faithful years...

 

ok, keep it polite. i am going to edit posts that I feel are aggressive.

a few items to clarify:

1. yes, amplifier brand does matter. manufacturers use tricks to rate their amps. you may need to feed your amp a 16V regulated supply with an 8V input in order to reach rated voltage (which occurs with >10% THD or even at full clipping). good manufacturers rate power output at a supply voltage and THD output. those amps cost more. you get what you pay for. Rockford is a good brand, but achieving rated power still requires you have a regulated power supply - something a car is not. note the voltage on the birth sheet - you won't maintain 14.4V at the amp terminals in a car without serious upgrades - and you will always have voltage drop when you have current on the wires. ohms law is never violated.

2. i agree that doing the big 3 is the first step - and you should have a good quality starting battery. i prefer AGM type batteries - and I personally run a Die Hard Platinum (made by odyssey) for its high reserve capacity and warranty. after that step you wait to see if you have any voltage drop issues by installing a volt meter in the car that measures at the amp terminals and has a remote display that is visible from the dash. note that the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) will not monitor the audio system and thus the PCM can turn the alternator off even with the amp on full tilt. addressing the ELD bypass is a good second step. after the ELD bypass then you can consider a new alternator. certainly, you can upgrade the alternator at any time - but to get the full current out of it, the previous steps are required.

3. listening habits play a huge role on what load can be expected. the impedance load on the amp determines what the output power can possibly be. upgrading the big 3 isn't just for high power systems - i do the ground upgrades on EVERY car i install a system on. i reuse factory ground points and our Honda's are easily accessed once you remove the battery tray and intake. when you add load beyond the factory system, you should address the big 3 grounding. what size to use is determined by the alternator output. if you only have a 120A alt, then 4 awg is all that is necessary. Also note that the alt to batt wire is in parallel with the factory wire - so current is basically split on those two wires. 4 awg is fine here (what I use and I even have a 100A fuse in-line with that wire). I typically default to 1/0 for grounding just because i like to lower resistance. that said - there is more resistance in the connections than the wire. the quality of your connections will determine how effective your big 3 installation is.

 

Thank you for the information. I believe I am going to buy a 4 awg big 3 upgrade kit online as wire is hard to come by where I live.