Audio/Visual Electronics Wired up? Everyone's got some sort of electrical modification... let's hear about it here.

Budget sound system for $400-$500?

  #11  
Old 07-10-2010, 03:04 PM
keep_hope_alive's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,210
Default

the gain structure with a factory head unit, a LOC, and an amplifier are very critical, and also that every wire is connected correctly.

you should be using the "C" cable as outlined in the instructions
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_120100.pdf



here's what you want to do, for starters.

i would start with the following settings (or tell me where all of your settings currently are):

find a head unit volume range you want to work with. i recommend going no higher, than 50% of the head unit volume range. this should be within the limits of the LOC and offer the strongest signal with some distortion. you're going to get distortion out of the factory head unit regardless.

next, you want to adjust your LOC gain such that it is close to 50% (no lower than 25% and no higher than 75% - approximately).



now onto the amp. assuming CH1&2 are powering speakers and CH3&4 are bridged to the sub, you want CH1&2 HPF around 80Hz and the CH3&4 LPF around 70-80Hz. that should be about the 9-10 o'clock position on the amp dial. CH1&2 bass setting at 0. CH3&4 bass setting no more than 40%.

since the gain setting is input sensitivity. this needs to be adjusted so that you do not clip the amplifier output at your set max of 50% head unit volume level. one method is to use 0dB test tone cd playin 50Hz, 500Hz, 1000Hz tones and adjusting the amp gain until you just start to hear clipping, then turn it back down - or the loudest desired listening level (whichever is lower). if you have a DMM (volt meter) then you can follow these steps:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...ge=1#Post65167


what did you use for wiring? you can't use factory wiring if you leave it connected to the factory amp/head unit. did you splice wiring, if so, where? did you run all new from the amp to the crossover to the speakers? new wiring is definitely preferred to prevent noise issues.

you can easily test this with a separate pair of speakers. disconnect the amp speaker wires (and tape or cap them so they don't short). next, hook up a test speaker on each channel, one at a time to listen for the hissing or noise.

if you don't hear anything, then you have a speaker wiring issue. if it is still present, then you have a signal issue (maybe the LOC or amp or head unit or LOC wiring).

if it is still present, then you want to rule out the amp. get a portable music player and a 3.5mm stereo to RCA stereo adapter and feed the amp a signal connected to the speakers - leave music player volume about half or lower. it should sound clean and clear and not shut off - and that means your amp is ok and the problem is up-stream.

start with that and let me know how it works out. i'll do what i can to help you trouble-shoot. pics of all connections, grounds, splices, etc. will help me help you more.
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2010, 11:36 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6
Default

keep_hope_alive - First off, I want to say thank you. I can't say that enough. It's rare to find someone online who is NEARLY as helpful as you. Everything you have posted so far has been more than helpful...

You are correct. The CH1&2 are powering speakers and CH3&4 are bridged to the sub. I've adjusted the amp and the LOC to the settings you've posted. The static is now GONE. I mistakenly had the gain on CH1&2 boasted to the max...

Would this explain why the speakers and the amp kept cutting out? Also, How should I adjust the LPF on CH1&2 for the components? How should I adjust the HPF on CH3&4 for the sub? Or shall I leave them on 0.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
 

Last edited by herrerajustin; 07-11-2010 at 01:32 PM.
  #13  
Old 07-11-2010, 03:30 PM
keep_hope_alive's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,210
Default

I'm glad I have been able to help. This is why I do this. Thanks for the complements. I like helping people who are willing to learn.

Originally Posted by herrerajustin View Post
Would this explain why the speakers and the amp kept cutting out? Also, How should I adjust the LPF on CH1&2 for the components? How should I adjust the HPF on CH3&4 for the sub? Or shall I leave them on 0.
yes, that would explain it - the amp protected the speakers from clipping. Powerbass is actually well engineered product at a budget price.

you have it backwards. LPF is Low Pass Filter - meaning only low frequencies get through. you use LPF for subs. a LPF blocks frequencies above the crossover setting (in Hertz, Hz).

HPF is High Pass Filter - meaning only the high frequencies get through. a HPF blocks low frequencies. You use a HPF for speakers.

you use these so that only one set of speakers produces a frequency, you usually avoid overlap of crossover points.

i set the crossover point based on these factors:
1. the published frequency response of the speakers.
2. the volume you intend to listen to
3. the amount of bass you want.
4. and most importantly - what sounds best

i usually play with both until i am happy, but 80Hz is a good starting point.
 

Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 07-11-2010 at 03:32 PM.
  #14  
Old 07-11-2010, 03:45 PM
keep_hope_alive's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,210
Default

i can explain this better like so:

Channels 1 & 2
From left to right in the picture above:
HPF around 80Hz that should be about the 9-10 o'clock position on the amp dial.
MODE switch at HPF
LPF setting doesn't matter
CH1&2 bass setting at 0.

Channels 3 & 4
From left to right in the picture above:
HPF setting doesn't matter
MODE switch at LPF
LPF around 70-80Hz, that should be about the 9-10 o'clock position on the dial.
BASS dial no more than 40% - or no higher than 12 o'clock position on the dial.
 
  #15  
Old 07-13-2010, 10:44 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6
Default

Okay hope, I followed your amp instructions. The only difference is I was more conservative on how I set everything and it sounds great, definitely better than before.

Although it sounds amazing, I still have a problem with the speakers cutting out. I can play them for 30 minutes straight - no problem - after that, they cut out. Sometimes, they'll cut out and then 10 seconds later, cut back in. ARGH , if I lowered the gain on the components or the sub any further, I literally won't have sound. My thought is the amp is overheating. They play fine then suddenly stop after 1/2 hour but why?

Why is this happening? The amp is definitely powerful enough. Should I lower the LOC dials even more? Should I post pictures of the settings/wire connections on the amp?
 
  #16  
Old 07-14-2010, 09:00 AM
keep_hope_alive's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,210
Default

i bet that is annoying.

start by measuring the resistance (with a DMM) at the ends of the speaker wires to verify you have close to 4 ohms for the speakers and sub. disconnect the speaker wires from the amp, one pair at a time, and measure the resistance.

hopefully you didn't end up with a 2 ohm sub or something.
 
  #17  
Old 07-06-2011, 08:16 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 8
Default

Amazing instructions. I installed a whole system in like a day!
 
  #18  
Old 12-02-2011, 08:55 PM
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Default

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
Polk speakers are fine - but don't get coaxials up front. you have factory components - get components up front. There are plenty choices out there in the $100 component set category. Alpine, Polk, Infinity, MB Quart, Pioneer, etc.

Here is my recommendation (prices from Sonic Electronix):

Amplifier - Powerbass ASA-600.4x. $200. A 4 channel amp that can run the front components and a single 12" sub (bridged @4 ohms)

Speakers - Boston Acoustics S60. $110. Shallow 6.5" comp set with good sound.
or - Alpine SPS-600C. $90. Standard entry level Alpine

Sub (needs to be 4ohm SVC or 2ohm DVC)- Xtant A212S enclosed 12" sub. $75. A killer price on a good quality 12" sub.
or - Kicker 07VC124 enclosed 12" sub. $125. Standard entry level Kicker.

And you'll need a 4awg amp kit (Streetwires or Rockford Fosgate)
You'll need 4 channel RCA's (you can get one set in an amp kit).
And to get the signal from your factory radio - you need a Line Output Converter (LOC) with an auto-turn on feature.
PAC-Audio AOEM-HON20
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Will that PAC-Audio converter work with a 2012 head unit? It's only listed up to 2008. Anyone have any experience with those?
 

Last edited by exige24; 12-02-2011 at 09:00 PM.
  #19  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:08 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dirtyburg aka Fredericksburg VA
Posts: 124
Default

Grounds ... Nice work BTW Mr keep hope alive..

I know old thread...
 

Last edited by Dannyboi40; 01-13-2012 at 08:12 AM. Reason: old thread.. didnt check before posting
  #20  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:22 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dirtyburg aka Fredericksburg VA
Posts: 124
Default

Exige24.. maybe u can find something here...

PAC SOEM-T (soemt) Premium 2-Channel Adjustable Line Out
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Budget sound system for $400-$500?


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.