Help! Need help with my Amp.
 

So I have had my system in my car for about like a week or so now and I was driving today and all of a sudden it stopped working. I have no punch from my sub. I pull over and check it out. The indicator light is still green but the sub isnt producing sound. The amp was REALLY hot. I dont know what to do any help would be appreciated. I have let it cool down and it still wont work. Any help would be appreciated.

Check all your fuses... Under your hood and on your amp... Same thing happened to me once and it was the fuse under my hood. Make sure you have high enough rated fuses to push your system...

Make sure that the fuse under the hood does not exceed the total number of amps for the fuses on the amp.

For example, if your amp has 2x 40A fuses or 4x 20A fuses, don't use a fuse over 80A in the engine bay.

If the status is showing green, then I doubt any fuses are blown. I don't think the amp would go into ready mode with just the remote on power. I could be over looking something here, but more than likely there is something wrong with the sub or wiring. Pull the sub out and make sure the wire didn't get shaken loose, then check the resistance of each coil. Anything much less or more than the rated impedance means your voice coil is fired. Also make sure your not running a load lower than what your amp can handle this will produce excessive heat and clipping. The heat can kill the amp, and the clipping can kill the sub.

You could also try running a speaker or another sub of the amp to see if there is any output. If using a speaker be sure to set the gains down low and the bass boost off, and turn the volume up only as little as possible. If you don't have an extra speaker you could just check for voltage at the speaker terminals. Since the amp is going into ready mode and doesn't smell of smoke, I don't think there is anything wrong with the amp itself, although it is possible you overheated a component and it just burnt out without shorting anything.

Going to need a bit more info though, how many subs are you running and what is their impedance rating. What amp are you running?

I have a 12'' rocksford fosgate punch stage 2 with a 700 watt profile baja amp. The fuses are fine. I probably fried something. God *DANG* it. I guess I better start saving up for what I really wanted anyway. 12'' fi btl with Diablo 2500 watt amp. I will check my sub more later I am headed to a bachelor party now. Peace.

I'm sorry I'm not trying to be condescending or anything but if you can't think to check the impedance of your sub in a situation like this. I think you should stay away from the competition gear for a bit. Those subs can get very loud, but they are not necessarily the best sounding, actually their not. And with that setup you would have to do a complete upgrade of your electrical system. Just in case you didn't already know.

I didnt know that. Thanks for the help. What is some other sub I can get? I heard Diamond is pretty good.

I've only heard one diamond audio sub, it was a 12" and not sure which one, and was four years ago though I think. It was pretty loud, but I don't remember being impressed by the SQ, not that it didn't sound good or bad just nothing that left an impression on me. If your goal is really only to be the loudest guy on the block, then something along those lines is right up your alley. If you actually want to improve your sound, and it sounds like you've got a big budget, I would go for a JL W7. There really isn't a sub on the market that can match a W7.

But do know loud show off bass requires a lot of power. To do what you see the guys at competitions and those youtube videos your going to need at least 1500w just in bass. Much more than 1000w and your really need to start looking into upgrading your electrical system, wiring and alternator. Although any sized system will like upgraded wires.

Good post here t00fatt, see your always giving out good information...

WheelBrokerAng

Ok your right, what I said was much more than 1000w, I'm running about 1200w on my stock electrical system. Once you start getting close to 2000w you really should start thinking about it. Also there is a power consumption difference between 2000w between bass and speakers, and just 2000w in bass. Running two or even three giant AGM batteries will let you run longer with car off, with the car running you will need to upgrade your alt to keep them both topped off. Competition guys can get away with the stock alt and a bunch of batteries yes, but if your driving around all day and pushing more than 2000w, and blasting your music that will not end well. If your blasting bass heavy music, your going to be almost drawing their rated power almost constantly. 2000w is about 170amps, a stock alt is about 70 amps. So even not at full tilt, a 2000w amp will be drawing more than your alt can supply. You do that for long enough you will run both, or all three of your batteries dry, that's just simple physics. Since this forum is not about competitions, I can not just recommend throwing more batteries at the problem. If your pulling more energy than your supplying, you will only end up running out of energy. No debate in that.

I do agree with you about caps, with a proper power source and wiring a cap is almost not needed, but there are some instances in where it helps in big systems. In what we run in DD cars, they are pretty much unnecessary.

Well I guess your right if you are running that much power your not going to be able to do it for too long, for your ears and drivers sake. I could be wrong but I think the amps actually draw a few more watts than they put out, I think this is because there is energy loss when rectifying the DC current to AC then stepping it up, this could be insignificant with digital amps though. But with the bass you play to really make those L7s sing pushes your amps close to their max rating for at least a fraction of a second. When you bought the fuse, on the back of the packaging it tells you how long it takes to blow. I think with most fuses it takes about a full second to blow at it's rated value.

And I'm almost 100% sure the 7th gen accords have a 70 or 80 amp alt. I wouldn't be surprised if the element had the same since it's the same power plant.

Here is my logic though, if you have the money to invest on 3000w of amps, why not spend the $400 on a new alt? Upgrading to H.O alts is not a myth and a lot of guys do it. With a big enough system you still need multiple batteries, but as you add barrties you need more power just to keep them topped off. I mean sure you can get away with two big battries, but they aren't always going to be topped off. Two half dead battiers can supply more amps than one, but won't last much longer.

Ok so I guess the w7 is a little out of my range. As was the fi sub. I guess I was day dreaming. What sub and amp combo could I use if I am running 10 gauge power supply. I'd prefer not to have to rewire that. God was it a pain. Anyway.....Any help would be cool. Thanks t00fat. Appreciate it.

I wouldn't recommend running any amp on 10wg, no matter how small there is just no need. I didn't even know they sold 10 awg kits. Hell my boat has 10 awg speaker wires, it is 13 foot run and I'm feeding them 100w though.

For a nice sized sub I would go with at the very least 4 awg, but 2 awg is always better and still small enough to manage. I would pull that 10awg and find another use for it, 8awg is really as small as you should go.

Ok so I double checked and it's 8 gauge. sorry for all the questions. I just want my subwoofer back working. lol. So any suggestions on an amp and sub?