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There is still an ELD on the 2013-2014 Accords. However, it looks like the change for the 2013-2014 Accords is a LIN (Local Interconnect Network) controlled charging system.
The alternator voltage regulator has a LIN wire going to the PCM (the LIN wire is yellow on the 2013-14 Accords). The LIN wire allows the PCM to control voltage and load response control rate. The PCM can also read back information and status of the regulator and alternator through the LIN wire. The LIN provides control/diagnostic on the same wire. There most likely is an IC chip in the regulator since there is the LIN wire. |
I read on the 9th gen Civic forums that they have something called canbus, this is not my area of expertise so whether that helps figure this out I have no idea. Would an alt with an external regulator bypass the stock system?
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Originally Posted by redbull-1
(Post 340379)
There is still an ELD on the 2013-2014 Accords. However, it looks like the change for the 2013-2014 Accords is a LIN (Local Interconnect Network) controlled charging system.
The alternator voltage regulator has a LIN wire going to the PCM (the LIN wire is yellow on the 2013-14 Accords). The LIN wire allows the PCM to control voltage and load response control rate. The PCM can also read back information and status of the regulator and alternator through the LIN wire. The LIN provides control/diagnostic on the same wire. There most likely is an IC chip in the regulator since there is the LIN wire. |
Anyone know if an alt with an external regulator would help get around this?
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I think that when the requirements for the charging system goes up, it is impossible to keep eld, especially on newer style. because to make alternator crank out more amps, the internal electronics must be changed. for our Honda alternator, Toyota electronics fit, and will make the alternator crank out 160 amps. but it then must be wired the original way. either way, if we have more robust electrical demands in our car, then it only makes sense that we don't want the alternator to ever stop charging. and to that end I think it would be better to take the alternator circuit away from the ecu completely, and focus on ways to either disable the code in the ecu so it doesn't bring up the check engine light, or build dummy ckt so the ecu thinks it is controlling a ckt it really isn't. while I know tuning solutions are hard to come by or non existant for obd2 Hondas, most tuning software will let you disable and even change parameters of codes. for example, when upgrading a chevy's charging capabilities, I will use hptuners to disable code 601 which is generator 'f' terminal.
here is my eld bypass.... |
Originally Posted by autowiz
(Post 340763)
I think that when the requirements for the charging system goes up, it is impossible to keep eld, especially on newer style. because to make alternator crank out more amps, the internal electronics must be changed. for our Honda alternator, Toyota electronics fit, and will make the alternator crank out 160 amps. but it then must be wired the original way. either way, if we have more robust electrical demands in our car, then it only makes sense that we don't want the alternator to ever stop charging. and to that end I think it would be better to take the alternator circuit away from the ecu completely, and focus on ways to either disable the code in the ecu so it doesn't bring up the check engine light, or build dummy ckt so the ecu thinks it is controlling a ckt it really isn't. while I know tuning solutions are hard to come by or non existant for obd2 Hondas, most tuning software will let you disable and even change parameters of codes. for example, when upgrading a chevy's charging capabilities, I will use hptuners to disable code 601 which is generator 'f' terminal.
here is my eld bypass....
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
(Post 339940)
that is why an ~820 ohm resistor in the end of the plug will trick the PCM into thinking the ELD is present and there is sufficient draw to keep the alt on while not throwing a code.
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
(Post 340423)
great info. that is not something to bypass.
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Originally Posted by MANTI5
(Post 340604)
Anyone know if an alt with an external regulator would help get around this?
Most, if not all previous generation Hondas had alternator/voltage regulators which utilize five terminal wires: Ignition (IG), Control (C), Field Reference (FR), Battery (B), and Lamp (L). The 2013/14 Accord alternator/voltage regulator utilizes two terminal wires: Local Interconnect Network (LIN) and Battery (B). Because of the wiring differences, an external regulator would still need to be LIN controlled by the same single LIN wire. So, this would probably not change anything. In addition, most external regulators out on the the market are not LIN compatible. |
Ok, thanks. I was asking because I sent an email to a guy that builds h/o alts and he said he could do one with an external regulator and I wasn't sure if that would make any difference. But if the 9th gens still have an eld, would unplugging it work like it did on the 8th gens or would you need a more elaborate bypass like what was discussed earlier in this thread?
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Let's wait for keep_hope_alive to possibly respond, he is the resident expert on the ELD bypass. :)
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