I'm having trouble getting my head unit to control my subs.
#31
02-16-2010, 10:05 PM
I disconnected my subs and switched out the fuses. I then turned on my amp and let it sit for a while, and the fuses didn't go out. So i'm feeling it's not the amp?
#32
02-16-2010, 10:09 PM
i'm interested about the gain setting on the amp (or input sensitivity).
are you referring to the fuses in the amp or the fuses on your fuse holder? you should have 60A fuse in your fuse holder for the amp, no fuse for the cap. cap should wire directly to the amp or, as we discussed earlier, you can route your power wire from the battery (+) into a fuse holder at the battery (within 18") then route the power wire to the trunk to the cap (+) then to the amp (+).
you need a fuse at the battery to protect the battery. you don't need anther fuse holder at the amp if your amp has built-in fuses.
power wire and ground wire should only differ in color - for safety. if you mix those up, you can damage the amp. otherwise, they can be the same. JL has wire with a removable sheath to change it's color for power or ground.
since you routed your power wire under your amp, it could have been damaged and could be shorting out. inspect it carefully for any burn marks or cuts.
are you referring to the fuses in the amp or the fuses on your fuse holder? you should have 60A fuse in your fuse holder for the amp, no fuse for the cap. cap should wire directly to the amp or, as we discussed earlier, you can route your power wire from the battery (+) into a fuse holder at the battery (within 18") then route the power wire to the trunk to the cap (+) then to the amp (+).
you need a fuse at the battery to protect the battery. you don't need anther fuse holder at the amp if your amp has built-in fuses.
power wire and ground wire should only differ in color - for safety. if you mix those up, you can damage the amp. otherwise, they can be the same. JL has wire with a removable sheath to change it's color for power or ground.
since you routed your power wire under your amp, it could have been damaged and could be shorting out. inspect it carefully for any burn marks or cuts.
#33
02-16-2010, 10:39 PM
There are like 6 different settings on the side. I could list all those? I'm sorry if i'm misunderstanding. My amp is very well labeled.
The fuses in the amp. And yes that all sounds about how i have mine set up.
Oh okay. then that probably explains why my cap is still working.
I did have my wires like that, but that was only when i was moving around my amp. I didn't actually have it like that when i tried turning it on. That was only temporarily. I did look at them though, and i didn't see anything wrong with them.
The fuses in the amp. And yes that all sounds about how i have mine set up.
Oh okay. then that probably explains why my cap is still working.
I did have my wires like that, but that was only when i was moving around my amp. I didn't actually have it like that when i tried turning it on. That was only temporarily. I did look at them though, and i didn't see anything wrong with them.
#35
02-17-2010, 10:59 PM
1st is set to max.
2nd is set to 50? it's slanted like /. (don't know how else to explain it)
3rd is set to LPF
4th is set to the middle. like | so that'd be approx. 275?
5th is set to 32. slanted like /
6th is set to 240. slanted like \
I could probably take a picture if that doesn't make sense. sorry. Somewhat hard to explain when it's not specific numbers.
Random question. do you think that the amp could mess with my speedometer?
2nd is set to 50? it's slanted like /. (don't know how else to explain it)
3rd is set to LPF
4th is set to the middle. like | so that'd be approx. 275?
5th is set to 32. slanted like /
6th is set to 240. slanted like \
I could probably take a picture if that doesn't make sense. sorry. Somewhat hard to explain when it's not specific numbers.
Random question. do you think that the amp could mess with my speedometer?
#36
02-18-2010, 12:48 AM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Turn ALL ***** to the 9 oclock position, meaning they should only be at 1/4 of their max. For testing purposes.
Your first setting, Level should NOT be set to max.
Since you have subs, you should have the switch on LPF. Ignore the HPF dial.
Sub sonic and bass freq shouldnt be pass the noon position.
These are "In General" situations. Slowly turn them if you need to, but always start with them at low levels.
Your first setting, Level should NOT be set to max.
Since you have subs, you should have the switch on LPF. Ignore the HPF dial.
Sub sonic and bass freq shouldnt be pass the noon position.
These are "In General" situations. Slowly turn them if you need to, but always start with them at low levels.
#37
02-18-2010, 12:54 AM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
If you are now having other electrical issues, you may have crossed some wires.
You should have a Power wire (with a in line fuse very close to the battery) from the + battery terminal to the + terminal on the cap.
On the same + terminal of the cap, you will have a wire running from the + cap to the + input on the amp.
On the - terminal on the cap, you will have a wire running to the - on the amp and another wire from the - on the cap to the ground on the car.
Also, you need to SLOWLY charge your cap whenever you are about to reconnect your battery. If not, you will see a large spark and this hurts the battery/cap life. I made my own slow charger by using a $3 interior dome socket and a 12v bulb from an auto parts store. When you are hooking back the the battery up, hook the + side up normally, then run one wire of the slow charger from the - battery terminal to the - wire you are about to hook up. When the light goes out, hurry and put the - wire on the - battery terminal.
You should have a Power wire (with a in line fuse very close to the battery) from the + battery terminal to the + terminal on the cap.
On the same + terminal of the cap, you will have a wire running from the + cap to the + input on the amp.
On the - terminal on the cap, you will have a wire running to the - on the amp and another wire from the - on the cap to the ground on the car.
Also, you need to SLOWLY charge your cap whenever you are about to reconnect your battery. If not, you will see a large spark and this hurts the battery/cap life. I made my own slow charger by using a $3 interior dome socket and a 12v bulb from an auto parts store. When you are hooking back the the battery up, hook the + side up normally, then run one wire of the slow charger from the - battery terminal to the - wire you are about to hook up. When the light goes out, hurry and put the - wire on the - battery terminal.
#38
02-18-2010, 07:41 AM
good advice with the cap charging - most caps come with a cap that allows for proper charging and discharging with resistors and status LED's.
gain set to max is a bad thing, that should never be more than 75%. if so, you have other issues or your amp is too small for your needs.
in order to properly set your amplifier gain, you need a few tools - a DMM, and a test tone CD - 50Hz test tones can be downloaded and burned also.
you can measure the output of the amplifier using the DMM set to VAC (AC voltage). Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp. Determine the maximum head unit volume you use - based on your own maximum speaker volume inside the cabin. Once you have an idea where you max out (won't be actual max volume on the HU) you can set your gain.
Play the 50Hz test tone, adjust HU volume to your personal max setting (you may need to disconnect your cabin speakers if you cannot provide a high pass filter for them). This sets the highest signal the amplifier will receive. Next, place the DMM leads on the amplifier output terminals for one channel. increase the gain until you measure the desired voltage - which is calculated as follows:
Power = Voltage squared, divided by Impedance.
P = V^2/Z
300W = V^2/4 ohms
V^2 = 300W * 4 ohms
V = SQRT(1200) = 34.6 VAC
So to achieve 300W at 4 ohms on one channel the DMM should read 34.6 VAC. However, Power Acoustik is overrated, and I would expect 200-250W of actual RMS power out of the amp, so your voltage reading will probably be closer to 28-31VRMS
I looked at the gear you've listed more carefully.
Kenwood KDC-MP242 with 2V preouts
Kenwood KFC-W301 12" subwoofer 4ohm SVC
Power Acoustik PS2-1800 2 channel amplifier 300Wx2 at 4ohms
I previously asked if the subs were 2 ohm DVC or 4 ohm DVC, you replied 4 ohm. I verified they are 4 ohm SVC. Wiring them in stereo means your amplifier is not operating at it's maximum output as I originally suspected.
None of this is related to the amplifier shutting off. Assuming it doesn't go into protect with speaker wires disconnected, I still think you have a speaker wiring problem causing it to go into protect.
gain set to max is a bad thing, that should never be more than 75%. if so, you have other issues or your amp is too small for your needs.
in order to properly set your amplifier gain, you need a few tools - a DMM, and a test tone CD - 50Hz test tones can be downloaded and burned also.
you can measure the output of the amplifier using the DMM set to VAC (AC voltage). Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp. Determine the maximum head unit volume you use - based on your own maximum speaker volume inside the cabin. Once you have an idea where you max out (won't be actual max volume on the HU) you can set your gain.
Play the 50Hz test tone, adjust HU volume to your personal max setting (you may need to disconnect your cabin speakers if you cannot provide a high pass filter for them). This sets the highest signal the amplifier will receive. Next, place the DMM leads on the amplifier output terminals for one channel. increase the gain until you measure the desired voltage - which is calculated as follows:
Power = Voltage squared, divided by Impedance.
P = V^2/Z
300W = V^2/4 ohms
V^2 = 300W * 4 ohms
V = SQRT(1200) = 34.6 VAC
So to achieve 300W at 4 ohms on one channel the DMM should read 34.6 VAC. However, Power Acoustik is overrated, and I would expect 200-250W of actual RMS power out of the amp, so your voltage reading will probably be closer to 28-31VRMS
I looked at the gear you've listed more carefully.
Kenwood KDC-MP242 with 2V preouts
Kenwood KFC-W301 12" subwoofer 4ohm SVC
Power Acoustik PS2-1800 2 channel amplifier 300Wx2 at 4ohms
I previously asked if the subs were 2 ohm DVC or 4 ohm DVC, you replied 4 ohm. I verified they are 4 ohm SVC. Wiring them in stereo means your amplifier is not operating at it's maximum output as I originally suspected.
None of this is related to the amplifier shutting off. Assuming it doesn't go into protect with speaker wires disconnected, I still think you have a speaker wiring problem causing it to go into protect.
#39
02-18-2010, 07:43 AM
Level should be set as described above (or read you manual and determine the input sensitivity range of the amplifier and coordinate with the Kenwood HU preout voltage)
HPF doesn't matter
The LPF should be around 120Hz
Subsonic should be at minimum
Bass Frequency doesn't matter if you don't have the remote level control connected.
HPF doesn't matter
The LPF should be around 120Hz
Subsonic should be at minimum
Bass Frequency doesn't matter if you don't have the remote level control connected.
#40
02-18-2010, 05:00 PM
Okay i'm going to test out those things before i get my new speaker wire. I checked the wire and some of it seemed crushed together and others had cuts in the insulation. The tips at the end aren't covered so you have 2 raw wires one one side of the amp and 2 other raw wires on the other side. So i probably need connected and i'm gonna get new speaker wire.
What gauge speaker wire should i be getting?
What gauge speaker wire should i be getting?