i got a 01 accord. the tweeters are on top of the dash and mids are in the doors. im looking at putting in rockford fosgate p1652-s component system(mids and tweets are separate). it has a built in cross over. so its made to take one signal and split it giving the higher freq to the tweets and mids to the... mids. but there are presently two outputs on each side; one specifically for the tweet and one for the mid.

does the car already have a stock cross over?
anyone know the game plan for wiring this? (anyone meaning keep_hope_alive... wild guess)
and last the speakers i want are 60 watt rms and my deck is a 50 x 4 watt all that means is theyll be a little under powered right?

 

the stock tweeter has a small capacitor mounted to it to filter out lower frequencies. there is not stock external crossover.

depending on the size of the crossovers, you can hide them in the dash. there is AMPLE space underneath the radio - just make sure your wiring is neat (use plenty of zip ties).

if you have pretty crossovers with adjustments you want to play with, you can also mount them in the glove box, and still have plenty of room to use the glove box. my build log has plenty of pics of that.

once you locate the crossover, you'll want to wire up the tweeters yourself, this is easy. just route the wire to the tweeter locations. i've found the "easiest" way to do this is to remove the glove box to access the passenger tweeter wiring, and remove the driver side gauge cluster trim (two screws) to wire the driver tweeter. removing each apillar trim piece (just pops off) will help you route wire to the new tweeters.

further, for the factory tweeters, i had to make a larger hole to mount my aftermarket tweeters. i used a properly sized hole saw to carefully make a nice hole in the factory tweeter mount (after removing the grill cloth). then i used the flush mount tweeter cup and a bracket to hold it in place. then you just recover the tweeter mount with grill cloth and put it back. note - when cutting, try to not damage the clips that hold the tweeter in place.

you can use the factory wiring for the door speakers, but it's also VERY easy to run new wire to those doors (i could do it in 15 min. per door). to access this, you just remove the door harness completely by unplugging the corresponding plugs from the driver and passenger harness.

my build log has plenty of pics of this process.

removing the glove box is easy, you just need to follow some specific steps. let me know if you need help with that. i can pretty much tell you from memory.

 

the speakers im looking at say they have a built in cross over.(cross over is part of the mid) plug + and - to the mid and on the other side of the mid you run another + and - to the tweeter. but there is already separated wiring of the mids and tweeters(stock wiring ). do i just hook up the tweet to the tweeter wires and mid to the mid? thus not running from the output on the mid to the tweeter. that sounds right to me cause the stock audio wouldnt run a medium freq to a tweeter and vise versa.
and the speakers will just be under powered right? 50 watt x 4 deck to a 60 watt speaker. its too small a wattage to get an amp obviously.

 

your understanding is incorrect. all of the stock wiring is full range because the crossover is mounted on the factory tweeter.

if your speakers have the tweeter crossover mounted to the mid, you'll have to run a new set of wires from the mid to the tweeter.

the speakers you describe require the most amount of work to separate the drivers. you could relocate the tweeters to the sail panels and save yourself a lot of work - you'd just need to run a new wire on the door, and not through the door wire grommet. the downside is the sail panels are not ideal tweeter locations in a Honda - the apillar or dash corners work much better IMO. you want your speakers as far from you as possible.

the head unit is actually about 12-18W RMS per channel - FYI. But it will still be fine for your speakers. Just know that with a decent amp the speakers will play much louder and sound much better. Any distortion you hear in the speakers is inherent in the head unit amp.

 

all right i understand now. so do i just leave the wires to the stock tweeters unhooked? (i blew one)
i have an after market head unit that is labeled as 50w x 4 did you think it was stock or is it just really over rated?
thanks a lot for all this advice

 

just leave the stock tweeter wires disconnected.

all head unit manufacturers rate and publish MAX power on their head units. MAX power is a useless term, as RMS power is what you really care about. the owner's manual will state the RMS power as well, of which about 80% is actually usable due to high distortion in those small internal amplifiers.

 

ayo you still have your stock radio?

 

i'm actually selling my factory 6-disc on ebay right now...

 

i still have the stock head unit but its not for sale. if that was your next question. i wanna have the option of keeping my head unit when i sell the car.

 

I realize this is an old thread but I was hoping someone might be able to assist. I have replaced all of the factory speaker wire except for the passenger side door wire. I can't seem to get access to the hole on the inside of the car leading to the rubber boot that goes to the door. The Airbag system is in the way. I was able to replace the wire on the driver's side but am having a lot of trouble on the passenger side. Has anyone done this that can share some tips? Thanks in advance!