AUE30 should be a 30A fuse. it's not a function of amp power, just the volume you listen to music. You don't need much power for your listening habits - assuming that fuse is still good. AGU fuses can fail either way. I'd replace the fuse with a new 60A (or a new fuse holder with more reliable fuses) and see if you have any issues.

 

I did go ahead and buy a new fuse holder, the one i linked earlier in this thread, will that come with a fuse? i would assume so... But I'll be running the 4awg wire from the battery to my new fuse, to the new distribution block, and out with two 8awg wires to the amplifiers. Also I plan to upgrade my ground wires from the battery and amps. I'm hoping this helps in some way.

and yeah i am not blasting my music for the most part but what if i wanted my subs to bump wont i need more amps to get more power for it to bump? i know i sound stupid but if my amplifier's not getting all the power it can use, then I'm just wasting money and WOW factor.

this may have nothing to do with it but my sub hardly extrudes, and my speakers outperform the subwoofer with ease. I would rather it be the other way around haha, im young I'm just trying to nail down these questions:

is my sub just really that entry level?
are my power wires not getting the job done?
is my sub amplifier not up to par?

sorry to be a pain Hope... but thanks man

 

i think it's a combinatinon of power wire size and amplifier settings.

we can delve a bit deeper into this. start with pics of your amps, wiring, and non-blurry pics of their settings.

 

alright lets see if this works...

factory ground wire: http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/P1030917.jpg

Positive wire connection + fuse + bit of new 4awg wire soon to come: http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/P1030918.jpg

Cleansweep (for kicks): http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/P1030920.jpg

Sub-woofer Amplifier settings: http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/P1030921.jpg

I can get more pics up tomorrow but i'm low on free time at the moment, let me know what needs to be changed if you can make anything out of these pictures.

 

I'd change everything.

Battery ground is no good alone. You need a second ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. You should also upgrade/replace the factory bonding jumper between the transmission housing and the chassis.

Power wire is no good. It should be wired directly to the battery to avoid additional load on the factory wire from fuse box to battery.

For both of these, you will need new battery terminals. Doing these is a must, this is not optional. See my sticky thread on replacing my alternator (in this section) and my build log for example wiring. All power wiring should be protected with split loom - high temp split loom in the engine bay.

Clean sweep location is fine. I'd use split loom on all wiring though - from terminal to terminal. All of it should have split loom protection (just like factory).

Amp settings are guaranteed to clip. Turn the gain down, turn the bass boost down. The remote sub level control can be high (it's just attenuation anyway).

You can also get the sub level control option for the Clean Sweep. It would be a good idea to make sure you get a good signal to your subs.

Did you run the Clean Sweep setup disc? (sorry if i already asked that)

I do like that you have taken some care to be neat with wiring, and your connections look solid. good job with those.

 

Hahahaha i had a feeling I'd have to do some changing around with this crazy setup i have...

When you say frame isn't that what its already connected to? Am I just adding another wire? I dont know what the bonding jumper is but I'll check out your alternator thread again if that's explained in there.

I'll move the power wire to the positive terminal on the battery when i do the wire swap.

So i assume I'll need to find somewhere to buy those new terminals, where would that be?

I'll check out some of that loom if see it any of the local shops, its nothing more than a little extra protection though correct?

As for the sub amp i don't notice any clipping in the sub, I'm no pro but its either getting a really low "bass volume signal" (cleansweep is flattening it out?) or not enough power because the sub is hardly even working. As for my rear speakers they are still acting very strange, when the bass hits they get very nasty sounding, the sound could be clipping but the front speakers aren't that way and they are smaller speakers???? I had a high pass set on both sets around 150 hertz so they didn't clip because of bass notes but yikes that didnt help. I may misunderstand the concept of clipping a bit here.

Do you know if that sub level control will allow me to adjust the bass signal to beef it up? like I've been saying, the sub has been a huge disappointment but i think it just needs better power/signal.

i did run the setup disc, what i found is on a low volume calibrate my rears sound alright at high volume (cranking cleansweep's volume control ****). But when i calibrate at the recommended 3/4 volume, i get muddy and bad vocal notes from the rears when some bass hits (lower cleansweep volume). What could be the issue?

And lastly my trunk is a mess at the moment but i hope to figure all this out and get it cleaned up. I do hope all my connections are good.

 

I'll need some time to answer all of that... but I will.

 

Not a problem man.

Just another thing to add though Will playing my ipod through the aux to rca cable cause a loss in bass? CDs have a small amount more of bass but that is because the headunit bass adjustments are on. Defeating the cleansweep when playing CDs gets me a nice boost in bass response, but when playing through the ipod it is defeated anyways so why would the bass be lowered?

^^Someone with some cleansweep experience could answer this one^^, idk what you know about the sweep hope...

 

The frame is below the battery tray. these are my battery to chassis ground and engine to chassis ground:



Any autoparts store will have typical battery terminals like these:


Or you can get good battery terminals from Streetwires (sold at PartsExpress.com)

clipping occurs when your gain is too high. applying a crossover to remove bass won't help since the signal is already clipped. you need to turn your gain down on the rear speaker channels.

Are you using the cleansweep master volume control or the OEM head unit control? you should calibrate to the OEM control at 1/2 or so, and leave it fixed (remove the ****). then just use the CleanSweep master volume control from there. That way the OEM EQ will not be negated. Once you change the OEM volume, the factory EQ can change (as many OEM head units have a variable EQ based on volume - i.e. they remove bass as you turn it up).

 

Also, are you sure the speaker signals you tapped into didn't have a factory crossover on them already? for some reason, you have a very little output at low frequencies.

the sub output issue could be one of a fewthings:
1. sub wiring is incorrect
2. amp is defective
3. RCA's are bad - try disconnecting just one RCA and see if it gets louder.