Optimum Opti-Coat ftw
#1
01-21-2014, 07:13 PM
Optimum Opti-Coat ftw
I've been using Opti-Coat 2.0 and Pro in my detailing business for more than 4 years now. Ended up putting it on my own car to make future care easier. Its a single application ceramic resin coating that lasts 10 years or more. Basically, it lasts the useful life of the paint. It is harder than the actual paint once it fully cures in 30 days, more resistant to scratching and bird bombs. Once the car is coated, all you have to do is wash it.
Polishing the paint is absolutely necessary to remove anything already on the car and also to remove swirls, scratches and other defects. Its just like if you were putting on a clear bra, you don't want swirled up paint underneath that is locked in. But if you have (or are considering a DA polisher) you should be able to handle the paint correction part-Honda paint isn't known for being particularly hard.
I did a black Corvette ZR-1 that was so jacked up it took 9+ hours just to compound and polish it.
Once polished, if you used Optimum's polishes you can wash with ONR (Optimum No Rinse) or their regular car wash soap. If you use other polishes, you have to do an alcohol wipe-down (15% alcohol content to water) to make sure no oils are left behind.
Application does take time. If you've used Opti-Seal (Optimum's regular sealant), Opti-Coat 2.0 (Pro is only available to professional detailers who carry insurance and actually operate a real business) is very similar in application. Wipe on a section or two at a time, once the pad it primed, maybe 3-4 dots per section. Once you don't see rainbows (kind of like how oil looks on water), if you see any cloudy sections, wipe them down lightly. If it feels tacky when you wipe it, the section isn't fully dry, lightly wipe again with the applicator, might clear out on its own then; if not wait a bit longer than the last time you wiped it. Just takes a little practice. And with 2.0 you have more time to catch the high spots before they fully cure, Pro cures more quickly. Using 2.0 really isn't as hard as some people make it sound. Once applied, keep the car dry for a few hours (supposedly you can get it wet after an hour but I tell customers to wait 12 if at all possible). You can drive it right away, it isn't like painting a car where it stays tacky.
BTW, I don't sell Opti-Coat, detailing cars takes enough time! Its pretty available through most detailing vendors.
Looks really good too, although polishing the paint does make a major difference with Opti-Coat (like it does with any wax or sealant) in the overall outcome.
My own car:
A customer's car-he took the pics and sent them to me
Customer's Charger
Polishing the paint is absolutely necessary to remove anything already on the car and also to remove swirls, scratches and other defects. Its just like if you were putting on a clear bra, you don't want swirled up paint underneath that is locked in. But if you have (or are considering a DA polisher) you should be able to handle the paint correction part-Honda paint isn't known for being particularly hard.
I did a black Corvette ZR-1 that was so jacked up it took 9+ hours just to compound and polish it. Once polished, if you used Optimum's polishes you can wash with ONR (Optimum No Rinse) or their regular car wash soap. If you use other polishes, you have to do an alcohol wipe-down (15% alcohol content to water) to make sure no oils are left behind.
Application does take time. If you've used Opti-Seal (Optimum's regular sealant), Opti-Coat 2.0 (Pro is only available to professional detailers who carry insurance and actually operate a real business) is very similar in application. Wipe on a section or two at a time, once the pad it primed, maybe 3-4 dots per section. Once you don't see rainbows (kind of like how oil looks on water), if you see any cloudy sections, wipe them down lightly. If it feels tacky when you wipe it, the section isn't fully dry, lightly wipe again with the applicator, might clear out on its own then; if not wait a bit longer than the last time you wiped it. Just takes a little practice. And with 2.0 you have more time to catch the high spots before they fully cure, Pro cures more quickly. Using 2.0 really isn't as hard as some people make it sound. Once applied, keep the car dry for a few hours (supposedly you can get it wet after an hour but I tell customers to wait 12 if at all possible). You can drive it right away, it isn't like painting a car where it stays tacky.
BTW, I don't sell Opti-Coat, detailing cars takes enough time! Its pretty available through most detailing vendors.
Looks really good too, although polishing the paint does make a major difference with Opti-Coat (like it does with any wax or sealant) in the overall outcome.
My own car:
A customer's car-he took the pics and sent them to me
Customer's Charger
#4
06-25-2014, 08:30 AM
The coating is more scratch resistant than the paint but that doesn't mean you can abuse it by going through brush car washes-there is no such thing as a safe one! But normal hand washing with proper wash pads/mitts and microfiber towels, the paint should stay swirl free for years. Holds up much better to bug guts and bird bombs too. And not having to wax anymore is great, just wash and you're good to go.
#5
06-25-2014, 07:51 PM
What is the regular maintenance once opticoat has been applied and how to correct it if ever you see scratches and swirls?
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