Paint Matching
#1
Paint Matching
I have a 2002 Accord Coupe and am trying to touch up an area, but the paint code call for Satin Silver Metallic. The touch up paint I got from the dealership is a couple of shade brighter than the car. Any idea how I can get to the real/closer color or a better match. Need to find a 4oz spray can if possible.
I pulled the paint code from the door jam NH623M
I pulled the paint code from the door jam NH623M
#2
I have a 2002 Accord Coupe and am trying to touch up an area, but the paint code call for Satin Silver Metallic. The touch up paint I got from the dealership is a couple of shade brighter than the car. Any idea how I can get to the real/closer color or a better match. Need to find a 4oz spray can if possible.
I pulled the paint code from the door jam NH623M
I pulled the paint code from the door jam NH623M
#6
In my experience the dealer touch-up paint doesn't match well. My 2003 is gold & the dealer stuff comes out darker than the factory paint.
#1 you have to shake the bottle continuously for about a week to get everything mixed up from the bottom of the bottle.
#2 The metallic stuff is very sensitive to the brush strokes. You can make it lighter or darker by handling the brush differently. Plan on practicing that for about a month.
I've had better match from non-dealer places that supply paint to body-shops. Look up Auto-Body-Supplies or something like that in the phone book. They can mix up a batch & then put part of it (or all of it) into spray cans.
#1 you have to shake the bottle continuously for about a week to get everything mixed up from the bottom of the bottle.
#2 The metallic stuff is very sensitive to the brush strokes. You can make it lighter or darker by handling the brush differently. Plan on practicing that for about a month.
I've had better match from non-dealer places that supply paint to body-shops. Look up Auto-Body-Supplies or something like that in the phone book. They can mix up a batch & then put part of it (or all of it) into spray cans.
#7
I had an area too big to brush. I bought 2 cans of Dupli-Color, one a shade darker and one a shade lighter ( didn't have the exact color ) I sprayed on the darker color first then the lighter color immediately. Waited 2 hours and did a light wet sand with 2000 grit. It actually blended in very nicely. Just need to add a layer of clear cloat and buff out.
#8
Any body shop supply place will have a color matching computer, they should be even able to tell you what car the color was used on if it's not the original.
I find the aerosol cans to be a terrible choice for touch ups, air brushing is much more effective, you have more control of the spray pattern and amount, and the paint won't peel like from an aerosol spray can.
xp
I find the aerosol cans to be a terrible choice for touch ups, air brushing is much more effective, you have more control of the spray pattern and amount, and the paint won't peel like from an aerosol spray can.
xp
#9
Rarely dealer paint will match car's, even if it's the same paint you still have a fading effect. Best to take it to a auto paint store and have it mixed for your car, and some stores may do computer matching, where they actually read the color of the car and then mix the paint.
However, metallics are sensitive. Not supposed to wet sand it, since it may look well now but not when you clear it.
Need to blend it in, so you'll wet sand more than the repair area with 1000/2000 grit, then apply the metallic overlapping a little into the good area (blending). When getting into the good area fan the spray out and stop, you do not want a heavy coat there. After applying 2 coats you should be ready for clear. Before you clear you still should see some of the white area where you sanded (like 1" of white with some specs of paint). That will get covered with the clear, and it should be clear - in other words when you originally prepare the area and sand with 1000/2000 you do not go deep to get to the paint.
Did not say much about cleanliness, wear non powder gloves, degrease before any application, use non lint wipes.
However, metallics are sensitive. Not supposed to wet sand it, since it may look well now but not when you clear it.
Need to blend it in, so you'll wet sand more than the repair area with 1000/2000 grit, then apply the metallic overlapping a little into the good area (blending). When getting into the good area fan the spray out and stop, you do not want a heavy coat there. After applying 2 coats you should be ready for clear. Before you clear you still should see some of the white area where you sanded (like 1" of white with some specs of paint). That will get covered with the clear, and it should be clear - in other words when you originally prepare the area and sand with 1000/2000 you do not go deep to get to the paint.
Did not say much about cleanliness, wear non powder gloves, degrease before any application, use non lint wipes.
#10
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