How to BLEED ABS Systems
#1
03-08-2010, 03:45 PM
How to BLEED ABS Systems
This assumes you already know how to bleed the main brakes. Search a post by DesertHonda for those instructions.
Beginning in 1998, Accord ABS no longer has a separate fluid reservoir, and no longer has a separate bleeding sequence. Bleeding the main brake system pushes fluid through the newer ABS system and no additional bleeding is required. Bleeding order for the newer cars is LF-RF-RR-LR.
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Bleeding ABS on Accord up through 1997.
The ABS modulator is shown. The rubber cap for the reservoir is #14, but also remove the other parts which have a tiny vent hole so you can pour fluid into the reservoir.
Check for leaks anywhere, but there's O-rings at the base of the accumulator (#23) and at the pump (#24). Fix any leaks first, & bleed the ABS after they're fixed.
The rubber cap for the ABS bleed screw is #1, while the bleeder itself isn't given a tag. Find a hose that fits well on the bleeder, & keep it under control while bleeding. Open the bleeder slowly, only just far enough to begin flow. There's enough pressure to cut through your skin if you're not careful.
1) After running the car, turn it off & fill the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.
2) Open the bleeder carefully; turn it off immediately when fluid stops flowing.
3) Run the engine for a few seconds; turn if off after the ABS pump stops running.
4) Refil the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.
5) REPEAT steps 2-4 several times until there's no more air bubbles coming out.
6) Replace all the caps & lids.
Beginning in 1998, Accord ABS no longer has a separate fluid reservoir, and no longer has a separate bleeding sequence. Bleeding the main brake system pushes fluid through the newer ABS system and no additional bleeding is required. Bleeding order for the newer cars is LF-RF-RR-LR.
---------------------------------------
Bleeding ABS on Accord up through 1997.
The ABS modulator is shown. The rubber cap for the reservoir is #14, but also remove the other parts which have a tiny vent hole so you can pour fluid into the reservoir.
Check for leaks anywhere, but there's O-rings at the base of the accumulator (#23) and at the pump (#24). Fix any leaks first, & bleed the ABS after they're fixed.
The rubber cap for the ABS bleed screw is #1, while the bleeder itself isn't given a tag. Find a hose that fits well on the bleeder, & keep it under control while bleeding. Open the bleeder slowly, only just far enough to begin flow. There's enough pressure to cut through your skin if you're not careful.
1) After running the car, turn it off & fill the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.
2) Open the bleeder carefully; turn it off immediately when fluid stops flowing.
3) Run the engine for a few seconds; turn if off after the ABS pump stops running.
4) Refil the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.
5) REPEAT steps 2-4 several times until there's no more air bubbles coming out.
6) Replace all the caps & lids.
Last edited by JimBlake; 03-21-2011 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Tradosaurus pointed out my error
#2
03-21-2011, 06:54 AM
So bleeding order for the newer cars is LF-RF-RR-LF? You have LF twice.
However doing a google I get all sorts of opinions on bleeding order.
I think the honda specified order is pass rear (RR), drivers front (LF), drivers rear (LR), pass front (RF).
I believe this is because you want to start with the line furtherest away from the master cylinder, and since the way honda brake lines are distributed, you have to cross bleed because, the drivers front and the pass rear are on one line.
However doing a google I get all sorts of opinions on bleeding order.
I think the honda specified order is pass rear (RR), drivers front (LF), drivers rear (LR), pass front (RF).
I believe this is because you want to start with the line furtherest away from the master cylinder, and since the way honda brake lines are distributed, you have to cross bleed because, the drivers front and the pass rear are on one line.
#3
03-21-2011, 11:54 AM
No, from the 98-02 Helm book it's LF-RF-RR-LR. The 03-06 Helm book has the same order.
Before ABS you're correct about rear first on each diagonal circuit. But with ABS it's determined by whichever circuit is more or less likely to push air into whichever other circuit. So a lot more dependant on the configuration of tubing around the ABS modulator.
Before ABS you're correct about rear first on each diagonal circuit. But with ABS it's determined by whichever circuit is more or less likely to push air into whichever other circuit. So a lot more dependant on the configuration of tubing around the ABS modulator.
#5
05-27-2011, 11:00 AM
Is this for pressure bleeding or vacuum bleeding since the sequence of wheels is the opposite between the two methods.
And I accidentally let the reservoir run dry while bleeding an '03 coupe when doing the left rear wheel with vacuum. I was looking at the rear chamber of the reservoir but it turns out the fluid was coming from the front. Now the pedal goes almost to the floor. Do you have to activate the abs solenoids while bleeding to get the air out? And how?
And I accidentally let the reservoir run dry while bleeding an '03 coupe when doing the left rear wheel with vacuum. I was looking at the rear chamber of the reservoir but it turns out the fluid was coming from the front. Now the pedal goes almost to the floor. Do you have to activate the abs solenoids while bleeding to get the air out? And how?
#7
06-18-2011, 05:57 AM
Brake Fluid
Hi. New to the forum. I'm a DIY guy and like to stay away from the dealer if and when I can. Not an advanced DIY'r, but most preventative maintenance such as brakes, oil, plugs, etc. I've done all the maintenance on my wife's car except the tranny fluid change. I may give that a try next time. Anyway...
I changed all the brake pads last week and was thinking about changing out the brake fluid also. Car has 60K miles on it. What is the choice of fluid? Manual recommends DOT 3 (DOT 4 only temporarily). I was looking at Castrol GT LMA. I use ATE in my VW. Should I stick with Honda brake fluid or can I get a good after-market brand? What about the DOT3/4 requirement?
Look forward to learning/sharing info with everyone.
Thanks!
I changed all the brake pads last week and was thinking about changing out the brake fluid also. Car has 60K miles on it. What is the choice of fluid? Manual recommends DOT 3 (DOT 4 only temporarily). I was looking at Castrol GT LMA. I use ATE in my VW. Should I stick with Honda brake fluid or can I get a good after-market brand? What about the DOT3/4 requirement?
Look forward to learning/sharing info with everyone.
Thanks!
#8
06-19-2011, 08:58 PM
Castrol LMA is DOT4 and I've used it.
How about ATE SL6 for it's lower viscosity (for ABS/TCS/EBD). I've been using it in the daughters Civics.
Over several different Hondas, I've always used DOT4 of some kind, including ATE blue. ALong with the higher boiling points, generally DOT4 collects moisture a bit quicker than DOT3. So if you're planning on leaving the fluid in there for 4 years, then use DOT3.
How about ATE SL6 for it's lower viscosity (for ABS/TCS/EBD). I've been using it in the daughters Civics.
Over several different Hondas, I've always used DOT4 of some kind, including ATE blue. ALong with the higher boiling points, generally DOT4 collects moisture a bit quicker than DOT3. So if you're planning on leaving the fluid in there for 4 years, then use DOT3.
#10
01-20-2012, 09:05 AM
If you can't see the picture in post #1, here's what you do.
Go to www dot hondaautomotiveparts dot com
- click PARTS
- put in the information for your car
- for the category, choose ABS MODULATOR
Go to www dot hondaautomotiveparts dot com
- click PARTS
- put in the information for your car
- for the category, choose ABS MODULATOR