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F23A1 Head rework info

  #1  
Old 11-03-2013, 01:12 AM
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Default F23A1 Head rework info

Hi,

I'm hoping to get some insight on an issue I am having and best route to resolve it.

I have a 99 Acura 2.3CL and from what I can find I believe it is a F23A1 powerplant with 200K. It has been using oil for over 100K and I just kept up on it. Recently it started running rough, developed shake at 45-65 MPH, sounds like a WRX at idle, and most recently throws codes 0300, 0301, and 0302 (Multiple misfires, Cyl 1 mis, Cyl 2 mis.). Did compression test and 1,3,4 read 180 PSI, 2 reads 90 PSI. Did leak test and shows exhaust valve. She still runs ok over 1500, skips a bit at launch, but I don't know how long I have before things get worse.

I have tools, can swing a wrench, and can read and follow a process. My question is how much fun is this job. Is it straight forward? I can get a reman head, and all the gaskets for the intake, head, exhaust, etc. and have them on hand to go. I shied away from a timing belt years back, but figure if I line up the bottom and cam after install I should be good, right?

I don't mean to sound rude, but I don't need speculation right now. I'm in Boston area, its getting cold, and I need this done soon, and on a budget so I can survive the winter here. I'd hate to throw $1K out the window on labor when I can do it myself. What have I bought all these tools for over the years? I feel its time to man up and go in.... I've repaired everything else on her over the last 10 years.

Can/should I clean tops of pistons while apart? Clean intake while apart? I could really use all of your support, insight, and reassurance that I will be able to get in and out successfully.
 
  #2  
Old 11-03-2013, 05:43 AM
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Pretty straight forward.

You'll have to look around for the best deal on a reman head. Get a head gasket set/kit. If the belt was replaced recently and you don't want to change it while doing this, yes you can slip it off the cam gear - several methods - and then slip it back on. Of course mark the belt and gear and be sure it goes back on with the correct timing.

I'd at least clean the egr port while you have it apart.
 
  #3  
Old 11-06-2013, 10:29 PM
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Just another question. While I'm waiting for the head to arrive I still need the car. Today it has progressed to the flashing CEL. As the misfire is due to lack of compression should I pull the injector to disable the fuel to the cylinder? When I get the revs up and the load off the motor it runs fair, a little shake but not bad. I'm not worried about damaging the converter (hmmm). Might it be firing at higher speeds (2K-2.5K) Only asking because I'm thinking of the cylinder wash of unburned fuel doing mechanical damage.
 
  #4  
Old 11-24-2013, 12:21 AM
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Hey, just wanted to let you know I got a reman'd head, put it in and started her up. (This is with no knock sensor, it broke) At first engine rev'd to 2K and sat there for a minute while she warmed up (35F here) then started to do the cycle I've read about, jumping up and down from 1K to 2K. I pulled the IAC plug and it ran rough up and down at aprox 1.5K to 1.6 K, plugged it back in with no change for another 30 sec. Shut it down and started it back up and ran perfect. Let it sit for 10 min. and idle, and ran great, good water flow (had heat) and good temp gauge. Took it for a ride (gingerly) and it felt good. Asked for a little power, felt VTEC kick in and CEL came on for knock circuit problem. I think I won. Runs smooth, no ping in the headers, even flow out the exhaust. I'm going to wait for the sensor to come in before I take it for a ride to work (25 Mile). I thank you greatly for the vote of confidence! I'll let you know how it holds up over the first 500 Miles (2 weeks).
 
  #5  
Old 11-24-2013, 06:18 AM
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Good to hear you got it going.

While waiting for the sensor. Just give everthing a good look over to be sure everything is back on where it needs to be.
 
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