What will that do for me? Dry it out?? Do i put it in and start or sit?

 

The drygas will get injected via the fuel injectors and will mix with any water in the engine to allow it to burn ..... FYI, there probably isn't any water left in the cylinders since you've already gotten it to run ...... just a precaution.

The seafoam will clean the intake manifold and will get any trapped water out of there.

The ECU reset will clear bad behavior caused by a fixed problem.


This will all only cost you $10 and about a half hour of time.

 

My car is Fuel injected, I have no carb to pour it in, where do i pour it?? So do you think there is extensive damage to the engine??? Im scared!! Like Freaking out! I mean i tachs at 5k RPM now.. Should i reset the ECU after doing all this then??

 

Seafoam gets sucked into the intake via the brake booster line. Drygas goes in the gas. I don't think that you actually hydrolocked the engine, but you may have blown a sensor as mentioned earlier. I'm surprised there are no CEL's. Does the check engine light come on for a second when you start the car? I wouldn't be surprised if there is a CEL, but also a burnt out bulb. If you have an AutoZone nearby, they read codes for free .... you should check this out.

Reset the ECU after the Seafoam. Maybe again after you run the drygas for 100 miles too.

 

My car is a 94' Accord.

 

I cant remember where to jumper for ECU readouts or how to restart the ECU. Autozone doesnt have the right reader for my car. and what kind of sensor could i have blown?

 

Ok I remembered. I jumpered the diagnostic plug and got this. Engine: Long-Short-Short & ABS: Long-Short-Short

 

OK, I think that's the no code sequence ..... also tells us that the CEL light works. The easiest way to reset the ecu is to pull the battery + lead and touch it to the - terminal to discharge any capacitors that may be in the system...... leave it for 10-15 minutes and plug the battery back in.

 

What is the code reading though?? I looked and the long one is telling there is a code or break right? Then the short ones are the readings right? So i looked up the codes i think here: http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

I think it's MAP sensor ** ??? That would make sense since water got into intake ? OR is it the Faulty ECU one *-**???

 

ECU code 12 = EGR

Good ECU with no stored codes shines the CEL on solid.

Failed ECU supposedly shows CEL but doesnt turn it on at all when the connector is jumpered.



ABS codes...
(thisis for the older systemWITH ABS fluidreservoir)
First long flash & long pause arent part of a code.
Short flashes for 1st digit.
short-ish pause.
Short flashes for 2nd digit.
long pause.
Next code (or repeat 1st code).