Originally Posted by Roch.nicholas
(Post 322801)
I usually use 10w 30 in summer and 5w 30 in winter.
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Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 322806)
If the PCV is old, replace it; I've seen plenty which would rattle and yet were still bad.
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Originally Posted by Roch.nicholas
(Post 322825)
Ill change it anyways its only 3 bucks but could the vtec solenoid valve cause oil consumption too? Or the EGR?
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Changed fram pcv valve from autozone im going to wait 500-1000 miles and see how it goes.
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Originally Posted by Roch.nicholas
(Post 322965)
Changed fram pcv valve from autozone im going to wait 500-1000 miles and see how it goes.
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Will do and also my car could use a valve adjustment too im gona see how much it is id do it myself but i dont have the right tools.
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Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 322799)
Why 10W-30? Doesn't your engine call for 5W-30? FWIW, in the world of Synthetic oil, 0W-30 is better than 5W-30 which is better than 10W-30; the lower the "W" number the faster oil pumps up out of your oil pan and into your engine following a cold start, even if said "cold start" is out in the desert where the ambient temperatures are above one-hundred.
As for burning oil, ALL internal combustion engines burn oil. It is in their nature. The worse the amount of oil consumption, typically shows the longer the intervals between oil changes the car has experienced over it's lifetime. I've seen folks use the Change Oil light in a Suburban, and by 80K miles they are buring a quart or two between changes. I've seen guys who are religous about changing the oil at 3k miles have 200K miles and not burn a drop between changes. Being a 4 cylinder 1998 model, I'd think 1030 will be fine. A little thicker later in life never hurt an engine. And I say that with confidence, as I've been turning wrenches for almost 20 years now professionally. |
The thing is, the ONLY time 10W-30 is "thicker" than 5W-30 (or 0W-30 for that matter) is when the oil is "cold" (i.e. not up to operating temperature), and that is exactly when you don't want it to be thicker. Why? Because the thicker the oil is following a cold start, the longer it takes to reach and start protecting the furthest reaches of the engine.
To restate; with modern oil technology running in a piston engine, 0W-30 is always better than 5W-30 which is always better than 10W-30, even if you're living in Arizona this week. |
Have you checked carefully for leaks?
Inspect the inside of intake air duct downstream of where PCV air leaves intake duct for valve cover. If it's covered w/ oil, you've confirmed PCV was problem, or engine blowby is enough to cause frequent reverse flow and oil consumption. good luck |
Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 325743)
The thing is, the ONLY time 10W-30 is "thicker" than 5W-30 (or 0W-30 for that matter) is when the oil is "cold" (i.e. not up to operating temperature), and that is exactly when you don't want it to be thicker. Why? Because the thicker the oil is following a cold start, the longer it takes to reach and start protecting the furthest reaches of the engine.
To restate; with modern oil technology running in a piston engine, 0W-30 is always better than 5W-30 which is always better than 10W-30, even if you're living in Arizona this week. But again, I see your point. My wifes 6.1L HEMI runs 0/40 and to me, that's way to thin for a huge american V8 |
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