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Power loss.

  #1  
Old 03-20-2016, 01:16 AM
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Default Power loss.

I have a 1996 Honda Accord LX 2.2L and it has started to shut off as I am driving in town or on the highway. I changed the fuel pump, ignition wires, spark plugs, and the battery.
Is there anything else I should check that may be the problem. I have the fuel filter on hand, but I don't want to change it out if that isn't the problem.
 
  #2  
Old 03-20-2016, 05:01 AM
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There are a few things that could be causing this but you will need to test them....just replacing stuff gets expensive pretty quick.

Can you describe what is going on when it cuts off.....do any of the warning lights come on, does the tach jump around "funny" right before it dies.

They how long or what process do you have to go through to get it started back up.
 
  #3  
Old 03-20-2016, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by poorman212 View Post
There are a few things that could be causing this but you will need to test them....just replacing stuff gets expensive pretty quick.

Can you describe what is going on when it cuts off.....do any of the warning lights come on, does the tach jump around "funny" right before it dies.

They how long or what process do you have to go through to get it started back up.
It'll make no noise; it'll run fine until it shuts off, usually after work or when I get done with school. Once it shuts off, no lights come on, and when I go to start it, it'll just crank, but it won't start. It usually takes less than 5 minutes for it to come back on.
 
  #4  
Old 03-20-2016, 02:00 PM
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First I should say I'm assuming there are no stored codes in the ECU - or the Check Engine Light is not on

To me it sounds like you are either losing spark or power to the fuel pump.

When you insert the key and turn it to on, the CEL should come on for a few seconds and then go off. ALSO the fuel pump should run for those same few seconds. You will need to turn off everything that makes noise (radio, blower motor, door shut, ect) to hear it.

I would learn how to listen for it while/when the car is acting fine.....then when it dies on you. Turn the key all the way "off"/out, then turn it to on and see if you can hear it and watch the CEL.

Next is testing for spark when this happens....which I know can be fun if you are by yourself. Who is going to turn the key to start when I'm under the hood checking for it

If you have a spare/old spark plug, what you can try is puling one of the spark plug wires, insert the plug into the wire then lay it on the valve cover with the metal part of the plug touching one of the valve cover bolts/nuts......then try starting the car as you look through the windshield, under the hood as it is open and see if you can see some spark from the plug.
 
  #5  
Old 03-20-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212 View Post
First I should say I'm assuming there are no stored codes in the ECU - or the Check Engine Light is not on

To me it sounds like you are either losing spark or power to the fuel pump.

When you insert the key and turn it to on, the CEL should come on for a few seconds and then go off. ALSO the fuel pump should run for those same few seconds. You will need to turn off everything that makes noise (radio, blower motor, door shut, ect) to hear it.

I would learn how to listen for it while/when the car is acting fine.....then when it dies on you. Turn the key all the way "off"/out, then turn it to on and see if you can hear it and watch the CEL.

Next is testing for spark when this happens....which I know can be fun if you are by yourself. Who is going to turn the key to start when I'm under the hood checking for it

If you have a spare/old spark plug, what you can try is puling one of the spark plug wires, insert the plug into the wire then lay it on the valve cover with the metal part of the plug touching one of the valve cover bolts/nuts......then try starting the car as you look through the windshield, under the hood as it is open and see if you can see some spark from the plug.
I've changed the fuel pump a few days ago. Even the RPMs drop to 0 as I drive for a short distance and the car will shut off. I also noticed that one of the wires wasn't connected all the way to the distributor cap, but it would do the same thing once that wire was connected. Could that be the problem or could it be something more than that?
 

Last edited by Werewolf115; 03-20-2016 at 11:51 PM.
  #6  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:20 PM
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Where I'm going and what I'm trying to test out is:

Main relay - this supplies power to the fuel pump. These can develop "crack" in some of the contacts over time. When they get hot - either being shut up inside a warm car or after running for a while - the contacts will not make contact anymore and cut the power to the fuel pump.

Next, inside the distributor is the ICM. Same thing can happen with it. It can get hot and when it does it will stop "pulsing" the coil - thus no spark.

Again, just trying to narrow down which it might be instead of just replacing parts on a guess.
 
  #7  
Old 03-21-2016, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212 View Post
Where I'm going and what I'm trying to test out is:

Main relay - this supplies power to the fuel pump. These can develop "crack" in some of the contacts over time. When they get hot - either being shut up inside a warm car or after running for a while - the contacts will not make contact anymore and cut the power to the fuel pump.

Next, inside the distributor is the ICM. Same thing can happen with it. It can get hot and when it does it will stop "pulsing" the coil - thus no spark.

Again, just trying to narrow down which it might be instead of just replacing parts on a guess.
UPDATE: I changed the distributor cap and the rotor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow morning and see if that'll fix the problem.
 
  #8  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Werewolf115 View Post
UPDATE: I changed the distributor cap and the rotor. I'm going to test it out tomorrow morning and see if that'll fix the problem.
While stranger things have happened, I'm betting the new cap and rotor will not solve your issue.
 
  #9  
Old 03-22-2016, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by shipo View Post
While stranger things have happened, I'm betting the new cap and rotor will not solve your issue.
UPDATE: After switching the distributor cap and rotor, the car has not shut off while driving, and drives fine now.
 
  #10  
Old 03-22-2016, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Werewolf115 View Post
UPDATE: After switching the distributor cap and rotor, the car has not shut off while driving, and drives fine now.
Keep us posted.
 

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